1803 Harpers Ferry lock replacement?

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JeepPowder

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So i have a Euroarms 1803 Harpers Ferry flintlock rifle in .54 caliber. So far has been shooting great eversince i got it some real flint for it. But after checking around for more information on it, i found these rifles have been known to not have the best locks that wear down quickly. Or just dont work right at all.
One thing i saw on several old classifieds ads for this rilfe is that some were swap with the RE Davis 1803 ferry locks. But everywhere i look for more information on how this done and what else is needed to make it work. Are almost nonexistent, the only one that actually haddl the information i was looking for was on this site.
Link:https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com
With detail pictures, but sadly the links to make the pictures larger dont work.

Has anyone here done it or have information on some else who has?
 
My advice is, if your HF is shooting good, don't mess with it. IF you have problems in the future, have it rebuilt.

I have heard the same complaints about the Zoli/Navy Arms Harpers Ferry rifle. I have one and the lock sparks. It seems that some locks are good and others are not so good.

If you DO need to have it rebuilt sometime in the future:

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/cabin-creek-lock-doctor-tune-up.183913/
 
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I put a new lock on mine and I must say it was a real pain. It does spark and work great now but it certainly looks ugly if yours isnt giving you trouble I wouldn't touch it
 
I had a Euroarms 1803. I installed the 1803 HF lock built by Davis.

This is what I had to do:

I filed the outer edge of the lockplate to fit the mortise. It fit without much filing at all.

I had to remove quite a bit of material from the top part of the lock plate/pan edge so it would fit flush against the barrel and at the same time look nice in the mortise.

Then used the correct size transfer punches to locate the lock bolt holes. Then drilled and tapped.

There was further inletting for clearance of the mainspring. I also ended up removing a little material from the barrel for this clearance.

Once again when fitting the frizzen, I had to remove quite a bit of material from the barrel side so it would clear to operate.

The wood needed a relief for the cock, also.

That was pretty much it. It looked like a factory fit, and there was not another smashed flint to be found. That original lock was a flint destroyer. After that, the gun shot really well with fast ignition.
 
I had a Euroarms 1803. I installed the 1803 HF lock built by Davis.

This is what I had to do:

I filed the outer edge of the lockplate to fit the mortise. It fit without much filing at all.

I had to remove quite a bit of material from the top part of the lock plate/pan edge so it would fit flush against the barrel and at the same time look nice in the mortise.

Then used the correct size transfer punches to locate the lock bolt holes. Then drilled and tapped.

There was further inletting for clearance of the mainspring. I also ended up removing a little material from the barrel for this clearance.

Once again when fitting the frizzen, I had to remove quite a bit of material from the barrel side so it would clear to operate.

The wood needed a relief for the cock, also.

That was pretty much it. It looked like a factory fit, and there was not another smashed flint to be found. That original lock was a flint destroyer. After that, the gun shot really well with fast ignition.
Do you have any pictures of the what you had to do?
 
No, I didn’t take any during the process.

Here are a couple of the finished product. Nothing spectacular other than a consistently functioning rifle. It is possible.
0AD8E1FD-7395-4461-8469-7A6BFBB888FF.jpegA2870C1C-BD58-45C9-87DC-1E82D978995F.jpeg
 
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So i have a Euroarms 1803 Harpers Ferry flintlock rifle in .54 caliber. So far has been shooting great eversince i got it some real flint for it. But after checking around for more information on it, i found these rifles have been known to not have the best locks that wear down quickly. Or just dont work right at all.
One thing i saw on several old classifieds ads for this rilfe is that some were swap with the RE Davis 1803 ferry locks. But everywhere i look for more information on how this done and what else is needed to make it work. Are almost nonexistent, the only one that actually haddl the information i was looking for was on this site.
Link:https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com
With detail pictures, but sadly the links to make the pictures larger dont work.

Has anyone here done it or have information on some else who has?
Recently got a mint, NIB, older 1803 by Zoli. The lock was horrible! Sent it to The Lock Doctor @ Cabin Creek, it's real fine, now! That is of course an additional cost to a purchase, but muzzle loaders aren't noted for their sanity, anyway! ;)
 
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