Traditions Hawken Woodsman hammer cocking issue

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Hello all, I have a .54 cal Traditions Hawken Woodsman Percussion rifle. Went out hunting today and when I got back to the truck fired my rifle to call it a day. I decided to shoot a few rounds since I hadn’t seen any sign of elk. Upon going to reload I realized my hammer wouldn’t stay at full cock. Half cock is still functioning. After getting home and doing some research I messed with the set trigger screws and can get it to lock but only by being the hammer all the way back, lowering it to right before half cock and then pulling it back again. Any advice is appreciated!
 
A few questions...
Did you remove the lock and try the lock to see if it functions at the full and half-cock positions?
Did you then take a hard look at the sear where it comes into contact with the full-cock notch?

IF the lock doesn't function right when removed, sometimes there is crud or a teeny tiny metal burr that is preventing the sear from properly engaging the full-cock notch. This needs to be cleaned and removed.

Also if the lock is functioning or if it is closer to how it should work but sometimes acts odd..., check the sear as that sometimes indicates a damaged sear, usually part of the sear is chipped or broken. The deeper half-cock position then engages but the damaged edge of the sear won't properly engage the full-cock notch. In this case you need a new sear.

HOWEVER, I'm guessing that the lock will work fine when removed but when replaced into the stock, OOOPS it's back to malfunctioning. A very common problem. Some wood from the stock is rubbing, either against the sear, or against the tumbler on the lock, perhaps also the main spring, and causing the malfunction. It's amazing how little friction from the interior wood is needed that will cause some grief. So you need to scrape a little wood from within the lock mortise to correct this.

I always when this happens, is take a lit candle, and on the lock which I have degreased and has no grease or oil, I use the candle to deposit soot on all the working interior parts. Then I replace the lock, and give it a small tap with a wood mallet (OK full disclosure it's a wood crab mallet). Then I carefully remove the lock and voila, where the soot has transferred to the interior of the lock mortise is where the stock wood is touching the lock. I scrape the sooty areas on the stock, then repeat. After two or three times, I then try the lock again, to see if it's still misbehaving. Remember, you just scrape or sand, you don't take of more wood than a teeny tiny bit.

This will probably cure your problem. OH and remember if it gets really damp, or you're outside in damp weather for a long period, the problem might return due to the wood absorbing moisture. Just correct the problem the same way.

LD
 
I'd take the lock out and examine it. Make sure to clean and lube it, snug down the lock screws afterward. Could be the softer wood compressed, causing the trigger to pull up more into the sear.

Test: set the rear trigger first, then cock the hammer... does it engage fullcock? If yes, the problem is your set trigger hitting the sear while in the non set position.
 
A few questions...
Did you remove the lock and try the lock to see if it functions at the full and half-cock positions?
Did you then take a hard look at the sear where it comes into contact with the full-cock notch?

IF the lock doesn't function right when removed, sometimes there is crud or a teeny tiny metal burr that is preventing the sear from properly engaging the full-cock notch. This needs to be cleaned and removed.

Also if the lock is functioning or if it is closer to how it should work but sometimes acts odd..., check the sear as that sometimes indicates a damaged sear, usually part of the sear is chipped or broken. The deeper half-cock position then engages but the damaged edge of the sear won't properly engage the full-cock notch. In this case you need a new sear.

HOWEVER, I'm guessing that the lock will work fine when removed but when replaced into the stock, OOOPS it's back to malfunctioning. A very common problem. Some wood from the stock is rubbing, either against the sear, or against the tumbler on the lock, perhaps also the main spring, and causing the malfunction. It's amazing how little friction from the interior wood is needed that will cause some grief. So you need to scrape a little wood from within the lock mortise to correct this.

I always when this happens, is take a lit candle, and on the lock which I have degreased and has no grease or oil, I use the candle to deposit soot on all the working interior parts. Then I replace the lock, and give it a small tap with a wood mallet (OK full disclosure it's a wood crab mallet). Then I carefully remove the lock and voila, where the soot has transferred to the interior of the lock mortise is where the stock wood is touching the lock. I scrape the sooty areas on the stock, then repeat. After two or three times, I then try the lock again, to see if it's still misbehaving. Remember, you just scrape or sand, you don't take of more wood than a teeny tiny bit.

This will probably cure your problem. OH and remember if it gets really damp, or you're outside in damp weather for a long period, the problem might return due to the wood absorbing moisture. Just correct the problem the same way.

LD
Thanks for the knowledge! Took your advice and it’s definitely working better. Also noticed a direct correlation with the tightness of the two screws that hold the lock and how the hammer functions (the tighter the worse the function). Now I just need to learn how to load it so it fires when out hunting!
 
You are over tightening your lock screws a wood in the lock mortise is rubbing on moving parts in your lock. No need to over tighten those bolts. They only need to be snug enough to keep the lock in the stock.
I think I have them tightened down to about 3-5 inch pounds of torque. It doesn’t feel tight but they don’t seem like they’ll back out. Either way I’ll keep an eye on them.
 

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