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  1. H

    Did I make a mistake? or Is there a misconception about smoking molds?

    I've never tried casting without smoking the blocks, and I have never had an issue. Aluminum, iron and steel blocks. If they look like they are getting 'clean' I smoke them again. I have had some problems with lead sticking to the top of the blocks when they look like they are getting 'clean'...
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    Anyone help on scotch bright

    Are we worried about microscopic pieces or visible pieces? Me, I worry about visible garbage in the finish, if I can see it with my readers or my optivisor it's way too big and gets refinished. If I can't see it and it is IN the finish, it isn't a problem and it won't rust, when the finish...
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    Anyone help on scotch bright

    This is the correct answer in my experience, if the finish is dry enough to be working with it won't hold fibers from steel wool or scotchbrite or anything else, a paper towel or an old t-shirt or just about anything will take all of the debris off the stock. Do this away from where you are...
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    Not done yet but pic

    Sidetrack: It's like seeing bumper stickers in the parking lot, people advertise their inability to comprehend things that to others are simple, and I really appreciate it so I don't waste a second on them. If you get your feelings hurt hover on the bad person's username, a box will pop up and...
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    Not done yet but pic

    AMEN!!!!!
  6. H

    Pecatonica Fusil; Novice Build

    Yes, I am stating my opinion based on actual experience.
  7. H

    Pecatonica Fusil; Novice Build

    Agree with Eric, do not get the lock inletted and I will add do not get the trigger/s inletted. It is a TON more work to fix the inlets than to do them in the first place. Add to that being green and not knowing what you don't know can completely derail the whole project. The barrel inlet will...
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    My 2nd Scratch Build

    I really like the color you have on that stock, how did you get that color? I have a plank that I want to be pretty much exactly that color when I am done. I'd like to see the brass finished more finely and the pores in the wood filled but that is 100% MY personal preference, I do...
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    Moravian inspired build

    I really like that mineral stain on the right side of the forestock, I am betting that is going to be super cool when it's done.
  10. H

    Moravian inspired build

    I like it Jack!!
  11. H

    New from Texas

    Same here, it's a pain but it is a very nice range.
  12. H

    Crown Questions

    If you use a ball to try to fix that it won't get any better I don't think. Best bet is to file/turn it back to flat/square to the bore and start over. Starting from a square muzzle and using balls works fine, but it won't help the crooked cut. In the modern high power long range game...
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    Assemble then finish?

    That is quite a piece of wood Larry, I am a bit jealous of that one!
  14. H

    Wood grade 5

    Back in the mid 90's I was fixing a CNC machine at a very high end shotgun maker and I was allowed to look at the wood in inventory (under supervision), It was all planed and sanded and finished on at least one side and some on both sides. Some of it even way back then was $70K for a chunk big...
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    Assemble then finish?

    Not Mike but the only thinner you need is how thin you put the coats on, a single drop will cover over half of one side of the buttstock when applied correctly to a sealed stock. Most people put on WAY more than that and I think that's where nearly all of the drying time complaints come from...
  16. H

    Started another horn

    That horn could end up fantastic. I'd be tempted to scrape the clear part of it back thin enough to be translucent, then decide how much further I wanted to take it.
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    Houston Tx area

    NW Houston here.
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    Assemble then finish?

    Don't use poly on these type rifles. Please. Good polymerized oils don't wipe off all that well either, but it can be done. You'll end up with a coat on anything that's finished in the stock, and it's not a bad thing. It protects metal like it does wood, keeping water out being the primary...
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    protecting bare steel

    The +P grease is what I think the stainless grease is called. I have used it for 20+ years on stainless guns and it works well, mostly hinge pins and ejectors on O/U shotguns and no sign of wear on hinges that have seen tens of thousands of cycles. It is tough and stays put, the only downside...
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