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  1. V

    Frizzen questions

  2. V

    Frizzen questions

    None of the flints on my locks hit that high up on the frizzen......on your lock the flint bounces the frizzen back because of the direction and then the frizzen comes back and contacts the flint. ....evidenced by the gap. If the flint were shorter it would have more of a downward movement...
  3. V

    Peep sight

    Had a peep sight on my Garand which was the only peep sight that worked.....and was used for horizontal shooting. Went hunting w/ a Redfield peep sight and used it on squirrels......missed a whole lot of squirrels when they were in the trees. My buddy and I used a peep sight on our deer...
  4. V

    Single Trigger Improvement

    Early on, I used a "U" shaped piece silver soldered to the trigger plate for the trigger pivot pin and the pivot pin bracket was 5/8" high. The trigger pull is around 2lbs and this flint squirrel LR has head hit 100s of squirrels. I now pin the triggers through the stock and the trigger pulls...
  5. V

    TVM vs Kibler

    If I just wanted a LR evidently like many others, a Kibler would be my choice. ....but how much does one learn about building? The Kibler offerings are made using space age technology which according to some is far from being historical. I've built a few LRs and to tell the truth , none were...
  6. V

    Vent hole liner

    All my later builds have a White Lightning TH liner and I drill the existing hole w/ a 1/16 drill. I use the 1/4 dia liner and locate the center 5/32" from the plug face. Have experienced no problems w/ the WL......Fred
  7. V

    TVM vs Kibler

    If you want to learn something as to building a LR, the TVM among many parts sets will do this. The Kibler, although it will show how a LR, both the Colonial and SMR should look, it doesn't require a whole lot of skill to complete...but you do end up w/ an excellent LR. .....Fred
  8. V

    I finally started my golden age Lancaster build.

    Started using Permatex Prussian Blue when working as a tool and diemaker and it does a good job on wood also. It isn't absorbed into the wood and the clean up is very easy.......actually, don't even specifically clean it off....seems to disappear w/ the final sanding before finishing. Seeing I...
  9. V

    Patch Box Assistance

    Rhino....the reduced diameter of the nail { long enough to be riveted} is inserted into the hole w/ a ctsk and is peened into a head which is then filed smooth w/ the lid surface. There is no separate rivet. .....Fred
  10. V

    Patch Box Assistance

    I use a fairly hefty nail and don't harden it. One end has a reduced dia which goes into the lid's ctsk hole and and is long enough to be riveted and then filed smooth. The nail edge that contacts the spring catch has a slight chamfer filed on and that side of the pin has ink from a sharpie...
  11. V

    Browning Rear Sight

    Browning the bbl w/ the sight {s} installed really puts an obstruction on 3 bbl flats. Instead of a straight run down w/ a patch slightly saturated w/ solution, one has to work around the sights. I think the areas around the sights slows down the browning and more than likely aren't browned as...
  12. V

    Question about stock finish

    In my previous post I stated that it takes me 36 hrs to stain and completely finish a stock for a LR. ....just wondering how long it takes to use some of the other finishes mentioned in other posts? My frustrating experience using BLO {months to dry, if ever} made me aware that some finishes...
  13. V

    Browning Rear Sight

    A none shiny surface is best for a rear sight....I always brown them if the other steel parts are also browned. Or it could be blued.....Fred
  14. V

    Question about stock finish

    Most builders have their "pet" stock finish and I have mine.....the stock is impervious to moisture , it wears well and has a very low sheen. Actually looks like there isn't any finish on the stock. After the stain is dry { 1-3 Dangler stains are used}, the excess unabsorbed stain is removed...
  15. V

    Staking Barrel Tenons?

    Hi...a purchased dovetail chisel is shown....a thickness of thin cardboard is slipped under the striking surface of the chisel. The chisel is aligned {sideways} parallel w/ the top flat of the bbl, held down and struck. A safe, one sided file is used under the dovetail's angles so the bottom...
  16. V

    Staking Barrel Tenons?

    Using a dovetail chisel for bbl lugs speeds things up a mite, but the main thing is that the bbl lug installation looks professional. I explained the entire procedure in a previous post in English in this topic but evidently some skip to the later posts......Fred
  17. V

    Staking Barrel Tenons?

    I served a 5 yr state indentured tool and diemaker apprenticeship and then practiced my trade for many years and have never used a center punch to stake a dovetailed tenon....if properly fitted, a fairy tight press fit should be sufficient. Also....why would one remove a bbl tenon {lug} when...
  18. V

    First Steps and Lessons Learned.

    Hi Dave.... as you sometimes build close copies of LRs w/ a history or a LR pictured in one of the books, I can see where a drawing would make things easier and produce a more accurate "copy". I've never done what you do. I find artwork the most challenging facet of gunbuilding mainly because...
  19. V

    First Steps and Lessons Learned.

    Hi Dave.....do you normally make drawings of your builds? From the first build on I've never made a drawing and the mistakes made wouldn't have been prevented by a drawing. I do use a Shuler buttstock template for the BCs but the Lancasters are drawn freehand. Most of the builds are from...
  20. V

    First Steps and Lessons Learned.

    Most of my builds were from blanks which are sent out for the bbl/RR work. Built 3 LRs from parts sets and all the precarves had mistakes....some fixable and some not. Building from a blank is easier and any mistakes would be mine {hopefully none}. Having an oversize lock inlet can be fixed but...
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