• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Search results

L & R
the hawken shop
shop deals on amazon
Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
  1. E

    Any linguists out there?

    As phony as the "Key gun" next to it.
  2. E

    Any linguists out there?

    This a tourist trade "arm" in my collection. They kind of look the part, but are not. You can see that they faked it with a rampant lion etc. They went as far to implement a roller frizzen. It does spark pretty good though!
  3. E

    What is it with curved buttstocks?

    It is not so much the curved buttplate by itself, but it is when combined with certain trigger guards that gets me. I have a "Southern Mountain" rifle that is very awkward to shoot. When the butt is placed on the bicep area, my elbow must go 'out" and this puts my firing hand on the trigger...
  4. E

    I give up!

    That is a pic that I just took to show the OP with the issue (not me) what a correctly installed fly looks like, and how it functions-
  5. E

    I give up!

    L&R fly installed correctly. It CANNOT go to half **** on the firing sequence. Metal on metal BLOCK. Actually lifting/pushing sear away from the half **** notch in the tumbler. If I install it the other way, it's going to drop to half **** every time.
  6. E

    I give up!

    I am 99% sure it is the fly. Show some pics. Some posts above, I explained an easy way to check fly function. Just "firing" the lock in your hands DOESN"T mean it's working properly!
  7. E

    I give up!

    If each assembly (trigger/lock) work correctly independently, then when used together this may be where the trouble is. Isolate each unit. Remove the lock, and watch through the sear hole clearance (in the wood)-if the trigger can go high enough (once pulled) to trip the sear "arm" with room...
  8. E

    I give up!

    Easy fly function check- Remove mainspring (the big one) only. **** the ****/hammer fully. Depress the sear just enough to clear the first notch and then let the sear spring go back to work (putting sear pressure back onto the tumbler) With a functioning fly, it's going to bypass halfcock...
  9. E

    Steel lip in Flintlock Fowler 20 gauge barrel

    1- Leave it as it is and shoot it. If you are not burning/cutting patches, or noticing any detrimental effects, then the "step" (boring process error) isn't an issue. 2- Send the barrel to the maker and have him bore/ream the "step" out. Because the barrel is custom fitted to include breech...
  10. E

    Possible British flintlock

    Another shot-
  11. E

    Possible British flintlock

    This is a photo of something very similar, albeit "higher" quality from India. Your example would fall into this category in my not so expert opinion.
  12. E

    Snaphaunce Musket Build

    Thanks. There is a vertical bar that pivots very high in the stock (this is the trigger). You can see the end of the pin above the rear of the lock. The sear runs sideways, and has a hardened protrusion that goes into the side of the ****. It was a little unsettling at first, as it really...
  13. E

    Snaphaunce Musket Build

    I tried my best to not over do things by excessive polishing and the like. As you can see, it's really easy on flints. Getting the frizzen angle and hardness wasn't too hard. I heat treated nice and deep, this isn't a case hardened frizzen. A testament to how good this design was in antiquity.
  14. E

    Snaphaunce Musket Build

    In the last picture, you can see the anchor point for the frizzen pivot. I did "cheat" a little, and installed a hidden bushing that positively stops the screw from over tightening, or loosening. This made the frizzen action very nice and predictable. It took some work to get it to kick over...
  15. E

    Snaphaunce Musket Build

    I used Claro walnut, it's very easy to work, and has great figure. Making the lock was extremely fun, and getting the springs to become springs wasn't bad at all. I did mess up the safety catch spring, but made another in short order. Due to metallurgical constraints of the time, everything was...
  16. E

    Snaphaunce Musket Build

    Here are some photos of the Snaphaunce Musket that I built from a TRS set of castings years ago. I posted the fresh build on this forum back then, but at that time it was an unfired arm. I have since shot it, and it definitely does work! Very smooth trigger pull, with a positive but virtually...
  17. E

    Hacksaw carving tools

    I have made some hacksaw blade inletting tools. I made them around 1.5 inches long, and used them as a vertical drive (small rawhide mallet) border tools. I made the "chisel" portion around .125 wide. Verdict- Still in my inletting tool box, and have not seen use in years. Went back to my...
  18. E

    Fowler buttplate screws

    Ok, I actually really like the large screw through the heel at an angle, and am 99.9% sure that I am going to do this on my current build. I have had 100% success so far.................. Anyway, is it HC (on a late English/American) fowler to have one screw in the toe, and one on the tang? I...
  19. E

    Building a Jaeger rifle

    That's my load for my .58 PRB Jaeger, 120 grains. Offhand, I can keep them all in a pie plate at 100 (most of them, haha!). Recoil isn't punishing, and my "educated" guess figures it's plenty for California Blacktail.
  20. E

    I have no idea what I have

    Those look like initials. J.M.B or J.H.B No need for a followup period on the initials. More than likely owner and not builder (99% sure). At least "he" had the foresight to mark a hidden area!
Back
Top