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And adding to that, it's the outer sap wood of maple that yields the creamy color we all want. In a stump cross section, that's usually 1/3-1/3-1/3 ( sap wood - heart wood - sap wood) or some number close to that. Curl comes from tangent to the grain wood rather than radial. Given that we...

Easy answer. No new rifle builds? Build fowlers and pistols! How about a full sized Napoleon 12 Pounder?

I'm sure that works for you Mike, but your experience level of 400+ guns made (like a McDonalds--Billions and billions served) and artistic skill level is far above mine (currently). I'm still in the "coloring book phase" of my artistic education, so having lines to follow is pretty necessary...

Bar soap works for that too.

Brilliant suggestion! Thanks!

You just need several relatively small solid pieces of wood for what is essentially a tool, rather than a nice stock or a single board, so your task is somewhat simpler. Look at your plans and figure out how big each of the pieces are and go from there. You might try the cabinet making shops...

I have a question about cutting in parallel line patterns. Many designs call for (or look best with) little triangle areas that have cross hatched patterns in them. They're usually around the peaks of designs. I have a problem setting the lines to be even all the way across the pattern...

You may run in to issues of the whoosh-bang more frequently if you put lots of priming powder in the pan which creates something of a fuse effect because the TH is buried under the priming powder. A way to deal with that is to file your pan just a little bit deeper. That would let you use the...

Doing the math sure works doesn't it? Out of curiosity, how much differential was there at the start between the front and rear sights (above the bore line center) before the filing was done? I've always started with the front sight slightly high (to the rear) just to make sure I have the need...

Whiskering with steel wool is fine if you're planning on staining with stains. All the books advise against it if you're planning on using AF or FN, as, imbedded flecks from the steel wool may turn black with the heat curing process. I've never tempted fate to find out if this is true or not...

Try using a very small needle file on those scallops on the tang carving to straighten out the lines. You want a tool with a relatively long sole or bearing surface so it doesn't get pushed around and dig with the alternating hard and soft spots in the wood. Likewise, using a flat file on the...

I like captured and pinned barrel wedges better myself. Due to wood movement, this time of year is the time that wood will be swelled the most, and, (most of the time) the wedges will be loosest. Apart from the excellent suggestions above (slotting and capturing, making the wedge bigger, the...

I like to use a very sharp pencil to trace around my inletting metal. Then I make my cuts to be all inside the pencil line by just a little bit. Be careful about tapering the metal with a file too much to get something of a "wedge" shape. That might get you a nice tight inlet when you first...

You're going to want the trigger blade to engage the sear bar about 1/4" from the center of the pivot pin of the trigger assembly. That will give you a pull weight right around 3-3 1/2 pounds. Closer than that will give you a lighter trigger, but more trigger creep. Further than that, a...

You need sharper tools. Slow down in your inletting. If you do that, your inlets will be tighter. You may be able to peen the tang to get a little bit wider to take up the gap. Otherwise, I would suggest gluing some wood in to the tang inlet sides and re-inletting it

Because of the high temps of silver soldering, I would suggest soldering to the rib with it off the barrel. The high temps involved and the barrel acting as a big heat sink may soften the steel of the barrel if it gets too hot. Not a. huge risk out where the thimbles are due to the lowered...

it seems that without a centering collar next to the screw it would be pretty easy to engage the ball off-centered somewhat, and of course risk scoring the barrel. Same thing up next to the muzzle, which is even more important.

Wow. That's just wild. Obviously the different chemical in the carrier changed things. You wouldn't ordinarily think so, but it just goes to show you that there are things you can predict, and things that you can't If you whisker the stock enough times (and it could be 3-4-5 times before...

Hence the need for practice experimentation on scrap before you proceed to your final object. Glad you decided to take it off before moving forward. Consider using a scraper to remove it rather than sand paper though. The sand paper dust can cling to the stock and get ground back in there some...

Very ingenious. Soft solder or silver solder?