My thimble's screw wouldn't hold. i soldered it. how'd i do?

[Norman Brooks]

I use what ever works best for me. Used low temp silver bearing solder on this one.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Because of the high temps of silver soldering, I would suggest soldering to the rib with it off the barrel. The high temps involved and the barrel acting as a big heat sink may soften the steel of the barrel if it gets too hot. Not a. huge risk out where the thimbles are due to the lowered pressure that far from the breech, but no good reason to take the chance if you don't have to.

 

[French Colonial]

Because of the high temps of silver soldering, I would suggest soldering to the rib with it off the barrel. The high temps involved and the barrel acting as a big heat sink may soften the steel of the barrel if it gets too hot. Not a. huge risk out where the thimbles are due to the lowered pressure that far from the breech, but no good reason to take the chance if you don't have to.

Not if you use this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Beari...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
You can use a propane torch and never get the barrel hot enough to affect anything.

I keep telling you guys

 

[user 34300]

There are many alloys of each general type, this effects the exact working temp.

Eutectic solders around 450*F
Lead tin solders about 600*F
Silver bearing solders about 600*F
Silver solder about 1200*F
Braze about 1200*F

We should have a sticky. The difference is confused most of the time around here. Silver solder is not silver bearing solder. Silver bearing solder is the new lead substitute plumbing solder. Some people call silver solder silver braze, that may be a better term.

 

[Greg Y]

What happens after you solder is important too.

Do not try to force cool the area. Doing so will cause potential movement.

If you ever want to freak yourself out, put a sharpie in the barrel and a piece of cardboard against the sharpie. When you start pouring the heat to the barrel....it's moving. When it cools, it moves back. If it cools too fast, it won't stop and it'll pass where it started.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

However, "silver solder" usually refers to a silver brazing alloy and actually does contain silver (hence the price!) The only difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature range, so it gets confusing sometimes.

FWIW Silver Solder versus Brazing are two different methods, but are often confused to be the same due to the same technique and process. This article attached explains the differences and comparisons to each other, to basic 'electrical-type soldering' and even to welding.

 

[Tyler L]

FWIW Silver Solder versus Brazing are two different methods, but are often confused to be the same due to the same technique and process. This article attached explains the differences and comparisons to each other, to basic 'electrical-type soldering' and even to welding.

I wish the term "silver soldering" hadn't come into use. I have a copy of The American Welding Society's Brazing Handbook and it defines it strictly as:

Soldering = under 840 F
Brazing = over 840 F

...so "silver solder" which melts at ~1200 F is literally just brazing.

 

[bud in pa]

I bought a roll of Brownell's HI Force 44 and never looked back. It melts with a propane torch, not excessively hot. I outline the area with a common #2 pencil to contain the solder. the solder doesn't stick to the graphite.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Plenty of good advice mentioned above. I'd suggest doing some practice before the real job so you don't make a mess. Here's a simple jig I use made out of a hacksaw blade to hold down thimbles and sights that I solder on.