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Hi, deerstalkert, I used to do this with Wonder Lube 1000 grease. Now I put my patches on a square metal cookie tin lid and put (with a plastic e-cigarette pipette) five drops of ox foot oil on each patch, the patches stacked in a box and the box in my pocket... ;)

Hello, I always buy Ballistol in small quantities and only occasionally: Contorion : revendeur numérique pour l'artisanat et l'industrie Currently, on Amazon (in Macronie/Absurdistan) the Ballistol is out of stock... No, I like this oil, but it makes me cough, I don't know why...

This is also right, never had this kind of problem, but it could happen... 4Fg and manipulating the cover is all I need. But I'm only shooting by fifteen shot series. This is very important the alcohol on an old cloth: I never shoot flint or wheel without a bit of alcohol with me, I always have...

Normally with a .50 caliber and a 1:44" twist the REAL will work good... What says the Miller formula? - https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi

Using 2 or 3Fg in the pan/wheel will also let tracks of burned powder and certainly more than the 4Fg: the more the powder is big, the more the residues will be consequent. You anyway get residues on the pyrite and the wheel...

That could be good to do like you say... I'll tell you how I do, this is maybe not the best way overall, but that is what I'm doing: after cleaning and with the patch used, I put a powder charge, the patch over this and I shoot the first time without a bullet, only with the patch. In that way...

Yep, Guys do this with 3D printers... Look at this... The file is free of charge... ;)

Clean the bore any time you can after shooting, oil it, and before shooting, degrease with some solvent like methylated spirit or something else. About the problem, I think that your barrel isn't really clean or not clean enough... Always clean your barrel after shooting, it'll thank you later... ;)

Don't know if that can help, but the different brands of Sharps rifles have certainly different calibers. I'm using a sporting rifle Pedersoli with flax cartridges, 60 to 70 grains of BP 2Fg, and 500 grains of pure lead bullets (Christmas tree out of the Pedersoli mold), the caliber is .541"...

In fact, the Pedersoli's aren't the best of the best (much better than the Traditions but not as good as the Dedinski's), but those rifles are good regarding their price... I have three of them, and apart from changing the flints or hardening a frizzen (twice), I haven't any story to spell...

Yep, the best way is to weld it. Silver or TIG will be good. Note that the silver is very easy to do, but it doesn't take any bluing or brown and this is something that could be seen, the TIG welding can be perfectly blued but is a bit more difficult to do...

Just because (in a very simple way) that your load could be right and good enough at 25 yards but too big or unadapted at fifty: your cone of dispersion goes greater with the speed of your bullet and the distance...

If you are shooting PRB with T7, I think that is too much for 50 yards, try with 45/50 grains. and adapt the load for the distance. For example for target shooting, the right load (in my Investarm .50 1:60 twist) is 43 grains of BP 3Fg, but the T7 is a bit more energetic than the real black...

The flint hits the frizzen too straight and too low as if it wasn't the right size... Try wedging the flint under the rear behind to give it an angle, and check the strength of the spring of frizzen: it should be firm but still smooth, with no hard spots in its movement. Have you checked the...

Hi, Flint62Smoothie, THKS for the interesting PDFs. This explains why I always did, and I say: "You have the gun tested at the Saint-Étienne (another place in the USA, like Gardone in Italy) proof house"... Here, in Absurdistan, we buy them here...

Before this extremity, a little honing with a lead slug (lead poured/cast directly into the barrel), some honing paste, and finishing with a mixture (paste) of vegetable oil and aluminum oxide powder may prove effective. You can try this before proceeding with a first soft reaming... If this...

Hi, Gordoncourtney (I'm back :D), How are you? I can assure you that Indian locks are generally in good working order and that the parts are very close to the original dimensions. As far as Indian rifles are concerned, it's mainly the woodwork that leaves something to be desired. If the vent...

Admittedly, Pedersoli's two types of blocks aren't the best, but by manipulating the lever once or twice between shots, they don't jam. On the other hand, when it comes to leaks, there's plenty to worry about (when you don't know about them). Even with an O-ring assembly, it's not the best you...

Hello everyone, I'm back (I feel sorry for you), it just so happens I'm having some health problems, that's being old... ;) Concerning the powder, and for the small difference in price. I prefer to use real black powder rather than any substitute, by the way, and as far as black powder is...

For muzzle-loading, and therefore also for pistols/revolvers, I only use lead, often called "crapper" lead (old lead pipes, lead sheet) that has been melted down and purified, then made into ingots: this is soft lead. I'm thinking about whether I could use wheel-balancing lead. It's much harder...