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Long time T/C shooter... make sure your lock screw is not too tight. I've had several T/C's that much tighter than finger tight will cause lock to bind.

I built my TC Hawken from a kit in the late 80's (I think). Used to have issues with busting flints and wearing frizzens as others did. Thinking it was in the later 90"s or so TC redesigned their hammers and frizzens and offered to replace earlier lock parts if you sent your old lock in. I sent...

I have TC Hawken from the late 80's with a GM Barrel, awesome rifle though not historical correct. Accurate, good handling.... No longer made but plenty of used ones out there. BTW... mine is not for sale

I use a 50 and try to "bark" them... the squirrels usually run away laughing but I get lots of tree limbs for my campfire

I have 2 TC Hawkens, both 50's, 1 cap and one flint... The cap is factory original. The flint was an early kit I built in the 80's. The lock was crap in those early ones, as said before, unreliable spark and eating flints. Sent it to TC in the early 2000's and they rebuilt it with the redesigned...

I use 80gr 3f, .530 ball, .018 ticking patch, and Hoppes black powder cleaner/lube on the patches. Get great accuracy, and can shoot all day without swabbing.

I am going to try to get back in there one day next week and look it over a little closer, maybe get some pics too. I can't really afford to be buying another gun right now but am curious about this one. Searching on line all I have found so far are the W Moore double shotguns. They are all...

Was in my local gun shop today and he has a .45 cal. percussion muzzleloading double rifle. The only markings I saw on it were W Moore & Co, and .45 caliber. It has a large block raised between the barrels at the breech that someone mounted a scope on, and no front sight. I thought at first, due...

I use 2f Goex in my TC flinter and usually use 4f in the pan, mainly because I was told I needed it and bought a pound. (a pound of 4f priming lasts a loooong time!) On more than 1 occasion I ran out of 4f in my primer before the end of a shoot and finished off priming with 2f out of my horn, it...

Kinda funny, when I moved to Carson City, NV a few years ago I thought I was moving to his old stompin' grounds. After reading some about him, I find out he never lived or spent much time here. Just passed through the area a couple times from what I've read.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. My memory is a little fuzzy, but I am pretty sure I saw a flintlock Hawken in the collection in the museum in Cody a couple years ago. And as far as style you're right about many variations.

I have one on my TC hawken and found the factory bead too larger for my uses. I ground the bead part off the front sight leaving a flat top post. Works great for me on my "coyote killer". May be hard to see in the woods though.

Thanks guys, clears things up :thumbsup:

I am kind of new at this but could one of you more experienced gents provide a more detailed description of the differences between a hawk and a hatchet? Perhaps even a pic of the 2 items from the same era side by side. Most of the guys in my club throw hawks, they are all modern manufacture...

I think one of us may have a bad memory but as I recall it was developed for Boeing, or maybe by Boeing for NASA? Doesn't matter. I find it makes a fairly good cleaner for gunked up actions and a water displacer. I lube afterwards. It also works great for removing the goo left behind when...

It just didn't sound like a real good idea, and I have never heard of it mentioned before, so I just wondered if anyone here had. I clean my bores with real hot water and never had a problem with build up. I'll have to ask next time I see him what he is using for patch lube. Knowing him it is...

I was at a shoot a while back and a fellow told me that after a period of shooting and cleaning accuracy would fall off. He said when this happens to clean the gun normally and then plug the touch hole and fill the barrel with boiling vinegar. After it cools a bit to clean again normally and...

I got a new lock from TC a couple years ago and it came with a sawn white flint in it. I tried it a couple times in my dimly lit living room and it sparked but not too impressive. I replace it with one of my rich Pierce flints and big difference. :idunno: I did try adjusting it several ways also.

You might want to try shooting that CVA first, unless you are set on a .58. I bought an old abused .54 a few years ago with a real nasty bore. My ramrod actually chatters when pushing a ball down the barrel but the thing is as accurate as my GM .50 barrel.

I don't know how you are doing this but pull the nipple and drip the penatrant on the inside of the screw and let it soak. That is where most of the "stickage" likely is. I find the PB Blaster found at most auto parts stores is about the best for freeing rusty bolts. WD40 is not much for that...