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OK, I got my Spiller & Burr from Dixie today, and took it apart to clean. This is my first Pietta product so I was really curious how it would compare to a Uberti. Pietta's box with the styrofoam insert is waaaaay better than Uberti's flimsy boxes! And the manual actually has a parts diagram...

I know, I ordered one from Dixie; should get it Monday. 😁

Yeah, they still show it in stock, but if I put it in the cart it says they will back-order it

I'd return it since it was obviously used. Can I ask what vendor it was? However, the alignment will not be guaranteed with a new cylinder. There's a non-zero chance you'll have to fit it to your gun. Parts are seldom going to be perfect due to tolerance stack-up in all the components. It...

I just bought a replacement Uberti 1851/1860 wedge screw, and I'm pretty sure it's #8-32 thread, not metric. Would it help at all if I confirmed the thread size for you?

I can confirm molasses works, although I find with my weaker mix it takes 1-2 weeks & periodic brush scrubbing to remove heavy rust. I use it to de-rust hurricane lanterns that are tin (or lead-tin) plated. The solution will last years if it doesn't mold or ferment.

I finally read Elmer Keith's "Sixguns". Very interesting and lots of good info even though it's quite dated now.

If you can't find a wider wedge, you could add a 1/4-28 set screw to the end of the arbor to fine-tune the wedge fit. Some examples: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/need-help-with-sloppy-wedge.167882/page-2#post-2411264...

You were right as usual, Mike! Thanks! This worked well; it now sets off the caps reliably. I should take apart and measure my 1849's hammer, because I suspect this gun's hammer has the pivot hole shifted up and over slightly making it sit differently in the frame.

Believe me, I was wishing I had some!

Ah, I see. And if I add too much material I run the risk of the action not resetting, yes?

No, I actually had the first cap dragging on the recoil shield because I didn't seat it far enough. That would've been an easy fix if I had room

*I hope no one minds I resurrected this thread I tried to shoot my 1862 for the first time today, and I quickly discovered the hammer would not set off the caps. Comparing to my 1849, the hammer is about .030" to .040" farther away from the cylinder/nipples. As a quick fix so I could empty...

C&Rsenal are also doing a series on repro revolvers called "Reprocussion". They're six guns (no pun intended) in so far. Playlist link:

This thread took a weird turn...I'm genuinely confused

Yeah, I just about got out the sledge hammer last time! 😁 I made a loading press with a long lever, so we'll see if that works out.

Measuring the gun's chambers first would probably be the way to go. I know Uberti says to use a .330" ball in their 1849 Colts, but I find that's pretty hard to ram in even with pure lead.

I see that, too. Almost looks like a piece of rubber tubing slid over the lower part of the nipple

I wish the term "silver soldering" hadn't come into use. I have a copy of The American Welding Society's Brazing Handbook and it defines it strictly as: Soldering = under 840 F Brazing = over 840 F ...so "silver solder" which melts at ~1200 F is literally just brazing.

In my line of work, seeing "rev C" immediately makes me think it denotes "revision level C" of the can graphics. Any change to the logo, colors, wording, fonts, etc. would merit a change from "rev C" to "rev D".