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  1. 4

    should I keep waiting ? or get this used 1847 walker

    And when the cylinder rides the cone,,,the fouling is wiped off the face. The wedge should always be tapped tight, that's the way Colt designed it.
  2. 4

    should I keep waiting ? or get this used 1847 walker

    I'm with Mike (45D) on this, the cylinder gap should be no more than ~.003". This will keep fouling to a minimum on the arbor and cylinder face.
  3. 4

    should I keep waiting ? or get this used 1847 walker

    I'll re-post the pic I found that shows how Colt did the originals. Note the barrel lug to frame location. Drop a thin washer or two down the arbor hole and try to assemble for a true check of the arbor length(or measure with a caliper). Measure the gap and subtract .0015-.0025 for how much...
  4. 4

    should I keep waiting ? or get this used 1847 walker

    That is indeed ASM. Check the arbor fit and correct the barrel gap as necessary. That monster gap does need fixing.
  5. 4

    Drying damp powder

    It's not that hazardous to use gentle indirect heat. Put the powder on a skillet anti-spatter screen and set it near a heater vent. The powder companies use a similar drying method.
  6. 4

    A question for the 1849 Colt experts

    Just a shorter hand is all. We're only talking ~12 degrees difference in rotation.
  7. 4

    Crockett hammer sucks caps

    Weell,,,,,no bang and no hazard makes for a good ending. Although you could rework the hot-shot to take #10s.
  8. 4

    markings on barrel

    Reassemble it and take some pics. The "CF" is actually GP under a crown. They are British proof marks. The remains of the other mark is just below the clearer one.
  9. 4

    Crockett hammer sucks caps

    The small charge of powder and ball will remove the spent cap instantly. 😉
  10. 4

    Crockett hammer sucks caps

    Put the Hot-Shot back into the rifle, load 5-6 grains powder and a ball, block the rifle on sandbags and use a hot soldering iron (or red hot piece of welding rod) on the cap. Keep Hands and face clear. The cap should now be removed or removable. 😉
  11. 4

    Attic find smoothbore?

    Gently clean the ELG cartouche, the mark under the letters will give a narrower date range.
  12. 4

    Attic find smoothbore?

    That and the tang screw should do it.
  13. 4

    Attic find smoothbore?

    ELG It's a Belgian Fowler. The lines are most likely the welded barrel pattern. Remove the barrel from the stock, and you should find more markings. The rest of the cartouche is hard to see, it would give a date range. I will say that it was always percussion, so that dates it post 1830.
  14. 4

    Old Muzzleloader Identification Needed

    The lock definitely says "Goulcher" on it. That was a common lock used by a lot of builders. The rest of the rifle looks like a mid west or Ohio pattern. Vincent would be one such maker, but not the only one.
  15. 4

    Difference between InvestArms 120B and 130B Hawkens ?

    Some time last year. Great Plains Signature Series
  16. 4

    My arbor has a hole in it???

    That dimple in the end of the arbor is for a center on a lathe. It's an artifact of the manufacturing process. The over drilled lug, is just Luigi getting carried away when fitting the barrel.😉
  17. 4

    My arbor has a hole in it???

    Look around on the floor and bench for a small (~3/8" dia) piece of metal. It'll look like a small coin. A prior owner most likely already made the shim, and it took off when you removed the barrel not knowing it was there.
  18. 4

    Difference between InvestArms 120B and 130B Hawkens ?

    No,, Investarm is still Investarm. Lyman is just having Pedersoli make one of their GPRs, that used to be made by Investarm.
  19. 4

    Difference between InvestArms 120B and 130B Hawkens ?

    As far as I can tell, the only difference is flint vs percussion. The lockplate size is the same.
  20. 4

    Cold bullet lube

    What powder? Real black lights easily in cold weather,,,,the subs not so easily.
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