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Absolutely. I’m glad I put one in mine. Just need more time to shoot

I only have experience with aluminum. I don’t usually have time on my hands to cast, but when I do, sometimes it may be 20deg or below freezing temperatures. I think this is why I have a hard time keeping my mould a consistent temperature. Last few times I’ve been tossing half back in the pot. I...

To test this theory, couldn’t you take a red hot iron and hold it next to the touch hole? but in my eyes, the distance between the charge and the pan is too great for radiant heat to provide instant combustion

Dogs love wood stoves, don’t they?

For what it’s worth...I have 3 Lee moulds and they work great. On my newest one I had an issue where the sprue plate screw was backing out. I drilled and installed a set screw to hold it in place, but haven’t been able to try it out since. Relatively easy fix.

Yeah I’ll be sticking with Taylor’s from now on. Numrich may be good with other parts, I don’t know. But this bothered me cause it specifically said “Uberti factory original part”

Being this is my first black powder revolver, I was very impressed with my Uberti. That’s why I was shocked when this cylinder came.

Thanks. I immediately thought there was no way this was Uberti. The difference was too drastic for “lack of quality control”. I called and was able to send it back. Just have to wait for Taylor’s to be back in stock

Just for example, maybe it’s because it’s just a cylinder but there are no proof marks like the original. And the original’s engraving is crisp and clean. It says “Engraved by W.L. Ormsby New York” where as the new one does not. In fact the “patent N.” Isn’t even centered

Numrich... but I’m not blasting them. They were the only ones who had these in stock at the time. They advertise as “New factory original”. But I don’t know how old they are, or if it truly is a Uberti cylinder. It just came in a clear bag. Hopefully the one from Taylor’s gets the same treatment...

I’m really hoping the one from Taylor’s is like the original. I’m aware of the quality control issues with these Italian clones, but this is a huge difference in my eyes. It can’t be my luck that they changed the tooling in a couple months time. I can’t even check if it functions correctly...

Good evening, When ordering a spare cylinder for a Uberti 1860 army, is it common to have to fit the new cylinder to the gun? I just bought one online, and I’m going to call tomorrow, but the new cylinder is nothing like the one that came with the gun. Not only is the quality subpar, but...

I haven’t checked, but can damn near guarantee you’ll need a permit for that stuff here

Looks like Orange County Choppers made this one. 🙄

Well it’s a half-stock. So I’m assuming I’m going to inlet the barrel first, then with the pipes installed I’ll be able to use them as a guide. That’s the plan anyways

I only have experience putting together a Lyman GPR kit, but I bought a stock from Pecatonica river to replace my TC Renegade stock. I wasn’t thinking to ask, but I received it without having the ram rod hole drilled. I haven’t started the project yet, but that’s got me nervous.

So getting back to my 1860, I have the arbor bottomed in the hole, barrel lugs just kiss the frame. I get .004” cylinder gap, so I am happy with that. However, I ordered a new wedge because I thought I had filed down the original too much. But this one still goes in just past the barrel on the...

After adjusting the button so the barrel just kisses the frame, I wound up with .005” with the cylinder held back. I’m content with that. It is slightly tighter (maybe .0005) on the bottom side of the barrel. It’s not perfect, but I’ll see how it shoots

Somewhat the same project I have...I have a renegade I sent the barrel to Bob Hoyt to bore out to .54. I’m putting a new stock on it, cause the original doesn’t fit me so well. I need to find what target sights I want to use yet.

Yeah, maybe I was just having a hard time figuring out the procedure...I just like to know exactly what I’m doing and why. It’s clear to me now