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I did it. I goofed up on my Kibler SMR, on the two breach end lugs. I was elongating the drilled pin holes just as Jim does in his video. It was my first time using a jewelers saw, and I didn’t realize at first how fast it was cutting. So rather than just elongating the hole, I enlarged them too...

I’ve been saving used tires from my motorcycle shop for the past year. I was going to fill them with sand, but opted against it just because it would be too much work and not practical for the terrain. I get so many, I stack ‘em 3-4 deep. I love seeing all the lead they catch. I haven’t done a...

Yup. I either have to go to the only place I know of in PA for powder, or buy online. It wasn’t this hard to get stuff here when I was in high school, and I’m (only) 38

Most people wouldn’t believe this is New Jersey. I’m very fortunate to live at the end of my road that butts up to state land, but much of the land here in Northern NJ is like this. Woods, Dairy farms and horse farms.

Welcome, I’m in Sussex. If you’re just looking for another way to hunt, as others suggested this is a traditional muzzleloader page. But for a good cap lock, or flint, look for a T/C Hawken or Renegade. I myself have a Lyman Great Plains Rife I used to hunt with. They can be found used for sale.

These worked well for me. Although I like all the homemade ideas https://www.micromark.com/Gentle-Jaws-Leather-Lined-Set-of-2

Sheesh for $50 you oughta make sure you have a bunch of the same stuff!! Not YOU, just in general

Just keep in mind, NOT ALL stick-on weights are pure lead. I work in a small Harley shop. We can’t get pure lead in NJ anymore, so a lot of weights are steel. The factory weights on the bikes are stamped zinc. So I make sure I save all the old pure lead weights when I change a tire. Otherwise...

I like that idea with the soot/charcoal. Something tells me I wasn’t scuffing it, or letting it dry enough. I think I have it down now. We shall see

I’m pleased to report, I may have figured out my “technique” I waited out the last coat of bone black for 48 hours. Figured I’d give it a shot…so I warmed up my can of Tried and True next to the wood stove, then gently applied a thin coat of oil by hand on the stock. None of the bone black...

I can see how some areas took…I’ve probably tried this process 3-4 times already. I think I just expected more. Thank you for the advice

Well I applied another coat of it this morning. I’m going to try my best to completely forget about it for 2-3 days then take a look.

The only thing I can think I’m doing wrong is not letting it dry long enough. I’m assuming with the pigment mixed in, it must take longer to cure/set up.

Welcome…I’m up by High Point in Wantage

Thanks. Yeah, I’ve watched this several times. I can get it on there like he does, but no matter how “gentle” I apply a thin coat of oil overtop, it’s coming off

Good afternoon. Any tips on using bone black? I’m finishing my Kibler SMR with tried and true oil varnish like Jim uses in videos. But I’ve tried several times with bone black in between coats, and can’t get it to stay. I know when I had it too wet it turned to paste. Too dry, it was powdery...

One question I have though… is the mainspring screw tightened down all the way? Or is it a turn or two back from bottom, to have a certain torque?

I would absolutely do it if I were single and not planted down. Sounds like a good and fun job opportunity for a younger guy/gal

38…been shooting longer, but I dove into black powder a little more than 20 years ago when I put together my Lyman Great Plains rifle in flint.

Imagine that…I actually did take a picture before disassembling.