Search results

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
  1. grey8833

    plain maple stain suggestions

    Captain: I like the Laural Mountain Forge stains/dyes. The colors can be mixed or thinned to get nearly any color you would want for a gun. Penetrate much better than oil based furniture stains. Mike
  2. grey8833

    Charcoal gray Barrel/metal finish reference

    MJWayne: I used cold water and 0000 steel wool. Keep the metal wet with the Brass Black for at least 60 seconds, turns dead black. A rub with lots of cold water gives you a dark grey. My cast butt plate came out darker than I liked so I did the wash with soft scrub (the one with bleach in...
  3. grey8833

    Charcoal gray Barrel/metal finish reference

    MJWayne: Try Birchwood Casey Brass Black on steel. Finish and degrease the metal, apply brass black, wait 60 seconds, scrub off with water and 0000 steel wool. Leaves a nice dark gray finish. Top with corrosionX and away you go. Try it on some scrap steel to see what kind of finish you...
  4. grey8833

    really really stuck ramrod

    Fillmore: Excuse me while I print that out. :bow: Thanks for sharing, one more thing I don't have to figure out on my own. Mike
  5. grey8833

    # 28 finished

    BLAHMAN: Very nice!!! as in "ohmyg_dyoumadethat???" :bow: What is the finish on the lock and barrel? Mike
  6. grey8833

    Id this gun

    BBN: Can not connect to the pictures. :confused: Mike
  7. grey8833

    Lock Inletting, Too Tight?

    Eric: No, sounds right. Ditto on what Roy said. It is amazing how easy the plate will come out if you screw the lock bolt in a few threads and tap it from the other side. If you don't have the lock bolt cut through the stock - try this. Get a heavy wire (stole on of my wifes turkey skewers)...
  8. grey8833

    Full stock Hawken build questions

    VoyageurPetro: Hawken is a hard place to start, but thats where I started (half stock Hawken). Go slow, practive everything you can on raw metal stock or wood from the hardware store (not that piece of tiger stripe). Get the plans, get videos, get book or books. Then read everything in this...
  9. grey8833

    Help me get this finish?

    Alamosa: If you want a nice even "French Gray" without all the steel wool rub back and "worn in highlights", try this: Birchwood Casey's Brass Black. Paint on per the instructions on a nicely cleaned steel surface (draw filed, sanded, degreased). Leave for 60 seconds (use a heavy coat, keep it...
  10. grey8833

    Offhand vs. Rest Shots

    Caps, Now that is one hel'o an ideeer. Mike
  11. grey8833

    Dark Stock Stain Wanted

    Prefer lighter stains, but man the lines on that rifle are superb! Mike
  12. grey8833

    Final stages

    It is certainly not PC - rather advanced material science stuff. CorrosionX for guns - bonds to the metal and locks humidity out. Not expensive either. Mike
  13. grey8833

    Dark Stock Stain Wanted

    LMF stains, put on un-cut, are dark. And since the stains are really dyes, you get a darker finish with each coat. I used the stuff cut 4 to one with thinner to get a medium brown (2 coats). TAnd since, the more coats = darker, you can sneak up on it. Real easy to use too. Just don't get it...
  14. grey8833

    Kit Rifle v/s Custom Gun

    Robbo: Kit or buy custom really depends on what you want - a "box of parts" is 200 hours of fun, but if you don't consider 200 hours of sanding, filing, fitting, (cursing), fun..... buy custom. The suggestion of buying in the white is a nice half way point. And do be careful, building is...
  15. grey8833

    Hawken First Build - Thank you

    Goldhunter: The stain was LMF American Walnut, cut with four parts thinner, two coats. The finish is per the Long Rifle book recommended in the kit. One coat of thinned Permalyn sealer (hint from this forum) two coats regular thinner, four coats of hand rubbed Permalyn finish with steel wool...
  16. grey8833

    Hawken First Build - Thank you

    Styr: The inlet on the tapered barrel with the tang is a tough one. Denfinatly epoxy the tang to the barrel (superglue did not do it for me) and inlet as a unit. Be very careful filing the tang to the breech (hook) - I made a boo boo there and had to add a shim to the hook (which no one can...
  17. grey8833

    Hawken First Build - Thank you

    Fisher King: Stock is M4 maple, so Track of the Wolf wants $250 for it, 100 less for plain maple, which is more Hawken PC anyway. Barrel was $275 for the Goodoien, the Colerain was 100 less, (calaber does not matter in the cost) but hey, how many of these was I going to own. All told, around...
  18. grey8833

    Hawken First Build - Thank you

    Zonie: Yes, I read what you write (wrote?). Promise to add my two cents, now that I have two cents to add. Mistakes - someone here said: It is not your mistakes, but how you react to them that counts. (There is a piece of a hickory ramrod used as a plug under the top screw on the butt plate -...
  19. grey8833

    Hawken First Build - Thank you

    Yea. First build. Should have listened - but hea, how hard could a Hawken be ? :youcrazy: The lock was fun, could not decide if I wanted the line to follow the forestock or the lock panel, so I split the difference and filed the lock bolster to match both > big ******* file for the first cut...
  20. grey8833

    stock finish

    Depends on what you mean by glossy. The Laural Mountain Forge Permilyn Sealer / Finish system gives a low gloss if small amounts are hand rubbed into the stock. 3 coats Sealer brushed on, two coats Finish rubbed on, steel wool, another two of Finish with steel wool in between, last coat of...
Back
Top