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See my post made earlier today, especially point #2: Tighter the better for PRB?

Several years ago, I ordered a bore sized mould (.618" - .619") from Jeff Tanner for my GRF 20ga. trade gun on the assumption that a bore sized RB would be more accurate than the smaller patched RB's I'd been using (.598", Lee Precision mould & Tanner mould; .603", Lyman mould, all with .014"...

Mark, Do you think a charge of FFg somewhere between 70 & 90gr. will improve the no. of hits on that target? Also, would hand rolled tow and/or wool felt wads help?

As already mentioned, when shooting CF or ML rifles off the bench, especially the latter with crescent butt plates, I wear one of those. Much less bruising and recoil induced flinching that way.

I had the urge to harvest some wild mushrooms today with my Mowrey .50cal. cap lock rifle. (This one's from Waldron, IL, not TX.) Normally, I use .495" RB's in that rifle, which I did for the first two targets, but as I ran out of them, I used .490" RB's. Although smaller, those .490" RB's...

As Eric mentioned, on T/C and Investarms/Lyman locks, disassembly and polishing all mating/rubbling surfaces and using a bit a of Loctite when reassembling works wonders. Ditto for the triggers (except you don't take them apart). The whole process should take no more than 75 mins. if you have...

gk, It appears that your barrel is moving ever so slightly in the stock. A quick and dirty fix is to use the yellow marked teflon tape for LP tanks, etc) to wrap and tighten the wedge and tang. The amount of tape can easily be added to or removed entirely if it doesn't improve accuracy. Btw...

I typically use WD-40 after cleaning and follow up the next day with either Marvel Mystery Oil and/or automatic transmission fluid (new). When I go to the range, I use a clean, dry flannel patch to remove the oil and haven't had a problem in any of my rifles. Here's an example of what my...

Cheap reading glasses (the ones you find at supermarkets and large chain drugstores) will also help and you won't have to change out the front sight. Look for magnifications of 1.25 or larger diopters.

Nice shooting, Robertirvine! (And with a smoothbore no less!)

Gary, I changed my hold a bit for the last target (i.e., both point of aim and holding the gun) and got better results. Oddly enough, my first shot got a "seed." It was indeed fun, but I almost decided to use my T/C Renegade SB with the same RB & patch combination as it's pretty accurate...

Well I tried to smash those watermelon slices as well just a little while ago, but I was less than successful. The particulars are: Gun: Isaac Haines (Chambers kit), .54cal. FL Load: 65 and 70gr. (last target/bottom target) GOEX FFg + .535" RB (.537" in fact ) from Lee Precision mould +...

Check out Accurate Molds, Blake.

Maybe Bobby Hoyt could "fresh out" your bbl. to .54cal. and make it 1:60 or 1:66? I think it would be more economical than looking for a replacement bbl.

Yep!

All, I have a .50cal. unmentionable rifle with a 1:28 twist Green Mtn. bbl. and receiver sight (Williams). To answer the OP's questions: Will it shoot RB's accurately, say at 50 yd.? Yes, but with no more than 50gr. FFg. Will it shoot conicals accurately at the same distance? Generally yes...

Kindly ignore the middle target as I mistakenly posted it!

I have also struggled with my NW trade gun and accuracy, Bushfire. Although not HC/PC, I've had the most successful with a patched RB .598" in a .618" - .619" bore and 65gr. - 85gr. FFg. Here are two such targets fired @ 25 yd. with .598" & .602" R Edit: I forgot to add that all targets...

They once did, but they were quite rare.

I had the chance to shoot the July target today and did OK, but not great. My first target is on the right, the second, on the left. Not many duds, but not many 10's either. If you've yet to shoot it, I suppose aiming at the fuse for 10 pts. is a good strategy since it is larger, but nigh on...