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Cutting lead with axe, chainsaw or circular saw causes (me.. because I've done it) anxiety.. and the desire for a stand-by band-aid, tourniquet or change of clothing. Air chisel should prob work. I Agree that a Sawzall makes very good sense (fine teeth will clog, coarser teeth of "aluminum and...

It's possible and not too difficult to make a .530 dia lead ball into a .490 dia ball. I wrote a long response but deleted it since no one prob wants to hear it anyway but not hard to do it. I thought of 4-5 ways to do it. Easiest is to take a fairly coarse file and file around its little tummy...

I have a heated and metered-valve dispenser for those full synthetic oils on really cold days. I'm working on a ball heater as well so there won't be any patch/lube/ball temp disparities in the middle of a hunt. Consistency is at the heart of accuracy. Hey.. it might work.

The numbers are specific part numbers for replacement "Balancing Weight". Pictures are exactly as posted here but NO indication of composition. I agree that counter weights are almost always iron or lead and lead is certainly more dense. I do not know of another similarly dense and easily...

Grizz says: "Didn't put enough dirt down. Saw it right off." As Robert Redford sets himself on fire in the movie Jeremiah Johnson.

If you remember where you saw that BB choke tube let us know. I'd like to see it. Sounds interesting.

TX-GRIZ ... Knock loud so I can hear and I'll open that door for ya.

Hey, hold my beer and watch this.. I'm still cooking with olive oil older than what Flintlock mentioned I think.

If percussion you can use Pyrodex/777 etc. but flintlock will not reliably ignite the synthetics. I use a 3/8" brass rod that I drilled and tapped (different size on each end) for accessories as my range rod. I also kind of like the extra weight forward. In a .50cal I use .490 rb and pillow...

I once soldered a kerosene funnel onto an old shotgun I'd tried to shoot mud out of... It worked great... Loaded sooooo easy. So sad that these days I must actually state the above is not true and is NOT recommended. Also do not eat the little silica packets that come with your kit build...

Put black tape over the part of the manual that indicates the twist rate (like if it was your check engine light) and just work up loads it likes. Faster twist rate barrels can perform in a satisfactory manner with patched balls.

Torque specs: Tighten until something breaks.. then back off 1/4 turn.

Just don't hop into the passenger seat of your wife's new Ford Explorer while imagining it's your friend the freight wagon driver giving you a lift to the Tradin' Post.

Welcome to flintlocks., lots of fun and a good way to git rid of extra income you may be burdened by. I recommend, in addition to some very good advice in this thread, that you search the posts of now deceased forum member Paul Vallandigham, who for years educated many of us specifically on...

If you're new to Flintlocks search for Pauls posts (dang I miss his hugely long explainations .. grin) and take them as gospel. I consider reviewing his thoughts now and then as time well spent.

If you don't have a torque wrench.. Never tighten it any more than a 70yr old right after a nap can.

If you are working up a load etc. only change ONE thing at a time.. lube or patch thickness or powder charge or FFg vs FFFg or Holy Black vs substitute or ball diameter etc. Also short 6" to 9" or so strokes (hand near the muzzle) to seat the patch/ball combination full down onto the powder...

A lot of good information. I usu cut at the muzzle from strips if pre-lube, sometimes pre-cut if spit patching so I can have one getting ready if I wish.. and I just look silly chewing on one end of a 3 ft piece of stripey cloth in public, although it can provide you with a bit more personal...

The midwestern town where I went to high school would have gas wars between stations and I remember prices as low as $0.10-$0.12/gallon for a few days but usually $0.25/gallon range. When cruising around town if everyone chipped in a quarter you could ride around all evening. On the other hand...

I've have had good results in the past with "cleaning up" several ML triggers. I cleaned up, deburred, smoothed rough places. The results were improved function and feel to the point they were no longer gritty draggy triggers. They are not F Class triggers (what ever those are.. grin) but good...