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It will depend on the twist rate of your barrel, if it is 1-48" or so it should stabilize the bullet, if a slower twist, like 1-66" it wouldn't and would be for RB only. It seems that 1-48" and 1-66" or so are pretty much industry standards. I think that here are variables related to bore...

I have a .54 GPR flinter and it shoots RB very well.

I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the flint had to be removed as well but that may certainly vary with the state. With recent discussions regarding discharges with empty pans that might be a defendable position. A feather in the TH is great safety and humidity protection as mentioned. As...

"Lead wadcutters and semi-wadcutters are still sometimes favored by defensive shooters..." In the 70's we would load hollow base wadcutters backwards in snubbie .38's/.44's, they tended to want to flip around and "fly right" eventually but for the first few yards they were acceptably accurate...

Nebraska is a bit windy as well so I can relate to the 45-50 mph gusts and the 30+ steady winds. I was shooting recently and the GPR lit the FFg prime as usual, except the puff of flame and smoke was about 4" to the right of the pan, no boom. I don't remember reading about that particular...

It seems that modern ballistics and bullet research is to try and get a smaller bullet with a flatter trajectory to act like a big round ball as soon as it hits a target. We tend to skip the middle ground, sneak up on our target and take it with the round ball from the start. :thumbsup:

Agree with MSW. Build it as a Rocklock. Once you start shooting it I doubt if you would ever change it back to caplock anyway. Since I began to shoot flinters I don't remember the last time I shot a caplock, I have them, I like them, I just don't pick them up when I leave the house. :idunno:

Dremel tools are great, I can screw something up in a fraction of the time it used to take me and leaves me with plenty of time to start completely over. :rotf:

You don't need round patches either, wash and dry it to get the sizing out (you might want to sew across the cut edges or it becomes a bit of a mess in the washer and you lose a couple inches, I think that you can get a little extra thickness if you really hot wash and dry it to shrink it as...

I wouldn't worry about the Kasenit. If the frizzen is Chambers (1095) you don't need it, just reharden or get a new one from Chambers/send the lock back and have it checked/repaired. I understand wanting to use the darn thing though. Hopefully the knapped flint will help.

If it's more than just you coming up with the funding I'd sure go to the higher end of the spectrum so the "donor" of that rifle doesn't feel like he's carrying the heavy end of the deal.

My Dad once told me, "Son, if it's that bad out, don't go". I imagine others have given the same advice over the generations. Other than that, all the suggestions are certainly good ones, barrel down, armpits, big hats and cow's knees I suspect have gotten us all by over the years, no perfect...

3/4" x 3/4" Square is the standard flint for the GPR, Black English Flint from Track of the Wolf or the fine flints knapped by Rich Pierce of this forum. Use real black powder (which can still be ordered delivered straight to your door).

I have a Cabela's .50 and a Lyman GPR .54 (both are made by Investarms) and while not PC or HC by any standard, I would recommend them as what they are, modest, affordable, functional, reliable, accurate flintlocks and a good bang for your buck. Lots of folks here are big fans of TC and that...

That's one heck of an article on black Powder production. :thumbsup:

Walmart ticking is thinner than .018" (usually more like .014"-.015" I think). It is widely used by folks in this forum, you might give that a try.

I figure $200-$250 for the package would not be insulting since it is actually a gift from each of you for a new young shooter. I like the pay forward part, give it back to the club perhaps, to be given to another young shooter when this one buys his own "first ML" or moves on to other interests.

You mean its not for cigs and gum and the truck keys?

The thin strips are spacing material for type setting and are not pure lead.

If they are actually strips, and quite thin with perhaps 2 or 3 thicknesses in the pile, they are likely the strips used between lines when hand setting type in "the old days" and would be an alloy, not pure lead and the alloy would depend on the kind of type it was sent with.