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Got to the range to try out the Cotton Drill patches today, no complaints on accuracy. 5 shots up top and 4 on the bottom. Shot a few groups but this gun has been struggling this weekend, 2 separate range trips with my "poor boy" rifle this weekend and both gave me tons of flashes in the pan...

Picked up 10 yards of Joann's "famous" Cotton Drill. Cut up a dozen strips and a few hundred precuts. Looking forward to trying it tomorrow, tighter weave than anything I've tried and basically no fraying

When someone has a budget set in stone like that, in my mind they can't rationalize spending more on whatever item. Not necessarily that they can't save a bit more. There are guns regularly sub 1000 on sale here and the ALR. Kit built guns, antiques and production

Out hunting I've used a loading block, which accompanied with a coned barrel is very simple. The rod on the rifle will push the load a few inches down the bore in one push, remove block and seat on powder. I often cut at the muzzle at the range purely for the fact it feels more traditional...

Bloke on the range did a few videos years back about "3 shot groups" particularly among center fire guns. Interesting math going on

The squirrels have stayed out of range so far this season, so I went out today to get some offhand shooting practice. Aswell as tote around my new Hunting bag. One of these days I'm going to attend a woodswalk and I'd like to be somewhat competent. It's taken me 10+ years of flintlock shooting...

I'd try again with a good single cut mill file for draw filing, As wide as you can find. Keep your hands in close on either side of the barrel with light pressure on top, it should follow the flats.

I had a clamp on flush tube, never lined up with the touch hole well, used it's parts to make one of these, which works very well. The maker of this is also a member on the forum as well. Davec I think. I keep mine attached to an old bottle, so I just need to fill the bottle with water and a...

Like I mentioned above, I use the mink oil in both flint guns that see hunting use. And they will see range time with said lube before the season. That doesn't mean all my range shooting is with mink oil. A wet lube like moose milk or Lehigh works better on the firing line, not hard to come...

Probably similar, it's a solid here in Georgia until it's in direct sun or 80+ degrees, then it gets a little gooey. As for powder contamination, I just pulled a load out of my 45 this weekend that's been in the gun since may. Ball pulled out smoothly, patch was still greasy with maybe 1grain...

Moose milk and spit patches are asking for rust, unless you pull your load after each hunt Mink oil or similar lubes that handle heat and cold are the "standard" for hunting for a reason. Good barrier for moisture in bore, can leave loaded for the entirety of the hunting season if need be...

My first flint was a TC Hawken kit still new in the box, and the lock on that gun did put me off muzzleloaders for a bit. Destroying flints every few shots, many flashes in the pan. Eventually i bought an L&R lock and it works great though it's undersized and looks bad on the gun. Not long...

Since I'm stuck at a public range, I only get 15 minutes of shooting before range goes cold. As long as I'm using a wet lube I can typically fire the entire stint, usually 5-8 shots. Although I always start cleaning when we receive a 2 minute warning. So i can start the next session with a clean...

I've shot 2 whitetail deer with my colonial in 54, all my local hunting areas are mountainous and covered in brush. I probably would have chose the woodsrunner if it had been available though i've got no regrets. I'll most likely swap on a 58 caliber barrel for this years season to shed a little...

Not all tung oils and linseed oils are created equal. I've used formbys tung oil twice now (read about it on ALR) with great results, one is curing as we speak, I was never happy with the permalyn so I stripped it off an older gun.

It's alot easier than it sounds (though I've only done 3) and very satisfying. Assuming your starting with a quality barrel it won't take long to remove the machining marks from the top 5 flats. Some Dykem layout fluid will tell you where you need to focus your attention.

With the deer season over, I finally got a chance to do some woods roaming to look for squirrels. I worked up a load for my 45 earlier in the year and filed the sights for a 30gr 3f charge which is dead on from 30-50 yards. I covered 3 miles and only saw 1 squirrel. No doubt my odds would...

I don't like handling the heavily oxidized lead either. I store most of my cast balls in mason jars which seems to do a good job of keeping them "protected". If there gonna be on the shelf for many years, a few drops of oil in the jar swirled to coat the balls wouldn't hurt

I have a Colonial in 54 and while it's not light, the balance is fine. Had the 58 been an option when I ordered mine I would have chosen it though. Still may get a 58 smooth barrel to play with

After getting my first deer last year, I've been at it since archery season this year with nothing to show for it, a number of doe sightings during buck only hunts. We've finally hit the primitive only hunts on the local wmas for the last few weeks of the season and have a chance at does which...