Build yourself a flintlock next and learn how to knap your own gunflints and you'll never be out of components again.
I'm knee-deep in one of these things again....
.626-7" or so, they benefit from a light sanding with 600 emery paper. The small pins look a lot neater than the big honking needle bearings that come with most kits.
If you carefully file or stone the tips of your pins square and use a very hard, square pin punch, the likelihood of...
I have a set of wire-gauge pin punches from Brownells that I use. They have fixed collets that hold replaceable punch tips. You could make a punch by drilling a bolt and putting in a short piece of music wire into the end.
They did....it's called "Asbestos siding".
I used to live near Decatur, in a trailer house, on the NW side of one of those rolling slopes, near the top, where I could watch the tornados come from a long ways off.
A pouch and horn for each gun.
I store all my other French pancakes in a giant plywood crate/shooting box my FIL built in the 70s for tailgate use when he was a regular competitor with muzzleloaders. That crate lives under a bench in the shop on a pair of small moving dollies so I can roll...
Yes....oops. Long week. .613" is what my .610" mould casts from 99.5% pure foundry lead; I use those same balls when running bare ball loads but haven't tried them patched yet. Smallest ball I tried in the 20 gauge was .575" with .34" denim twill and all it did was burn rings in the patches...
If you had an odd gauge it would be one thing but you can buy 500-count bags of 12-gauge stuff for chicken feed.
That said, I'd just use cornmeal between powder and shot and a folded rectangle of old ground-pulp target paper to hold it in the barrel.
Everything I do to a smoothbore regarding larger ball and thinner patch for a tight combo has grouped better in every one of my guns. One of these days I'm going to dry .010" pocket drill and .513" in my .622". .602/.018" works better than .595/.022.
Running .465/.018 in my .580 and it...
The gold fill stuff in the red and white box is Forster brand, for what it's worth. I have no recommendations other than listen to eggspurts on these things.
If you really want to know how the finish is doing, cut some strips of clear, hard packaging material with tin snips and tape them to the wall. Put a smear of oil on one and mark time/date with a Sharpie every time you put on a coat. Check the plastic coupon, not the stock, for dryness.
Keep...
Very true, but it depends on how authentic you want to be.
Hardware store BLO and many commercial finishes are not properly boiled and have a very high acid number. Tru-Oil also has a very high acid number and will darken wood in time. Tried & True varnish oil has an almost neutral acid...