Punch for stock pins

[Flint62Smoothie]

If you use the nail sets, grind the tip flat and then round/break the edges very slightly with a diamond stone. But advise a straight profile punch is the better choice.

Otherwise they do sell 1/32” pin punches specifically for the locking pins for older Smith & Wesson revolver barrels. They are fantastic, where smaller punches are needed!

 

[SDSmlf]

If you use the nail sets, grind the tip flat and then round/break the edges very slightly with a diamond stone. But advise a straight profile punch is the better choice.

Otherwise they do sell 1/32” pin punches specifically for the locking pins for older Smith & Wesson revolver barrels. They are fantastic, where smaller punches are needed!

Not being argumentative, but find the concave tips on nail sets really stay on the smaller pin (I go one size down from the pin diameter) to get it moving when the pin is flush with the wood. The nail sets are tapered and you don’t want to move the pin much with one or you will damage the wood. Otherwise I use straight punches down to 1/32” diameter.

 

[wiscoaster]

...

Otherwise they do sell 1/32” pin punches ...

Can you post a link to the source, please? I want this size punch.

 

[flatcreek]

I used 4D finish nails that are .072. I use a 1/16 piece of music wire stuck in a piece of 5/16 brass for a punch.

 

[IanH]

Your pins are over 5/8”?

Yes, of course, don't you? They're a lot harder to miss with the punch and hammer.

 

[IanH]

Guessing you left a ‘0’ of the diameter. .626” is well into and past the big honking needle bearings.

Nope, I use 3/4" pins on the big guns. 900 grains of 20F powder and a 6" round ball. Watch those decimals, folks!

 

[TDM]

Yes, of course, don't you? They're a lot harder to miss with the punch and hammer.

Well, bigger is usually better.

 

[IanH]

Here are some GOOD gunsmith pin punches from Brownells as I mentioned earlier.

 

[Felonious]

Wow ! Those are some tiny pins ! I'd use finish nails instead , .075 ( approx) but thats just me . You can take a finish nail and grind / file it to size , blunt the end , naturally . Man , thats tiny ! Best of luck bud !

I also use finishing nails. They work great for me.

 

[FlinterNick]

I would write to Jim Kibler and ask him, he sells tools for his gun kits, he may have punch for those pins.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I use a trimmed finishing nail.

 

[TDM]

I have used all 3/32” pins in builds but mostly just use what’s included in a kit. Usually 1/16”. But for pinned triggers I do use either 3/32” pin stock or a finishing nail.

 

[Clark Badgett]

Yes, of course, don't you? They're a lot harder to miss with the punch and hammer.

I’m gonna have to try that. Those little pins are getting harder to see.

 

[Snooterpup]

I use a trimmed finishing nail.

I do this also. I also use a hemostat to securely hold the nail (.054) just under the head. The serrated jaws of the hemostat hold the trimmed securely at 90 degrees. Positioning it tight against the barrel pin I lightly tap the nail head. Works great for me.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Oh my Lord guys. 2 pages of nonsense about a simple 1/16” pin.
Use a 1/16” punch, (best ones available at Brownells) they are actually a bit undersized, so no damage to the wood, be careful and don’t miss the pin.
This is still not rocket science. You don’t use a sledgehammer to drive a tack.

 

[Clark Badgett]

Oh my Lord guys. 2 pages of nonsense about a simple 1/16” pin.
Use a 1/16” punch, (best ones available at Brownells) they are actually a bit undersized, so no damage to the wood, be careful and don’t miss the pin.
This is still not rocket science. You don’t use a sledgehammer to drive a tack.

It’s called have a good time with our misuses of decimal points. And it’s far better than arguing and calling each other names over other subjects.

 

[PathfinderNC]

Every shop needs a set of two of hemostats.
Or tweezers.
And a hammer.
Don’t forget the hammer

 

[Wncman]

Stupid question, pins for my Kibler are .037”. In the past I used a little piece of drill bit shank as a punch. Not ideal but works if you are careful. Looking around the internet looked like smallest punch you can get is 1/16”. Anyone have a source for a smaller punch?

My Colonial uses 1/16

No stupid questions around here (except mine maybe) , though seriously, there was a pretty good discussion about builder's tools not too long ago here:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/a-list-of-beginners-tools.167856/#post-2409211There was some discussion about punches in that thread. Hopefully your question was answered there. I haven't been able to acquire a punch smaller than 1/16 in. myself, and I've just used a drill shank like you when necessary.

Not to hijack the thread .... but .... I took a different approach with my SMR and used music wire instead. Which is available at Ace Hardware in 0.062 in. diameter, aka 1/16 in. And then opened up the pin holes a bit to accomodate pins made from that music wire. And genuine 1/16 in. punches, of course. Worked just fine, though I suspect you're going to hear from the naysayers on that topic.

the Kibler kit (colonial) comes with pin stock. Comes with a guide and a very small bit, to be used as a starter. He’s got a video showing how too.

 

[Clark Badgett]

My Colonial uses 1/16

the Kibler kit (colonial) comes with pin stock. Comes with a guide and a very small bit, to be used as a starter. He’s got a video showing how too.

Mine from a couple years ago did not include and bit or guide. The 1/16” holes were already drilled.

 

[Appowner]

One thing I use on modern firearms when starting/driving roll and spring pins-
A small piece of rubber or vinyl tubing, insulation stripped from wire works well for very small pins or similar slipped over the shank of your punch will prevent the punch from slipping off of the pin- “sleeve” the pin with it.

Ditto except I use a 1-2" piece of 1/16 OD brass tubing. Find a hardware store or good Hobby Shop with a K&S Metals display. They should have the music wire as well as the brass tube.