Search results

My 58 cal Colonial weighs 8.1 pounds(un-charged). It has a grade 2(fancy maple stock).

Using my 58 cal Kibler Colonial,,,,,

Yes. While I shoot a 58cal Colonial, my buddy has a Colonial in 54 cal. He has gotten excellent results using a .530 LRB with .015” patches.

I agree with this! Properly fitted/finished, it will be un-noticeable, and have comparable strength and compression characteristics.

EXACTLY!!!!!!

A bag of English Black Flints arrived yesterday……Showed the wife….She laughed, and said….PERFECT! A LITTLE BAG OF COAL!

I have always removed the barrel for cleaning with my hooked breach rifles. When initially acquired( whether kit or finished), I have made certain that the barrel/breach/recoil plate(stock) was properly fitted(no gaps at the breach), the barrel channel/fore-end tip/nose cap) was properly...

$320, w/o sights https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/all/products/colonial-green-mountain-kibler-kit-replacement-barrel?variant=32012020580470

Been over 20 years, but I really like my 1851 Colt holster made by Old West Reproductions. They are quite exact to original designs. Also use them for my SAA’s. https://www.oldwestreproductions.com/

My Kibler Colonial was initially purchased a couple of years ago with a 50 cal barrel. While it shot very well and fit me perfectly, for my medium build(and advanced age) it was too front heavy…difficult for me to shoot well off-hand. I purchased the 58 cal barrel. It took less then an hour...

Time will tell. I try to keep it well cleaned and lubed. Of my dozen flintlocks it’s my fastest igniter, and, most accurate….several hundred rounds fired so fat.

I agree. If the powder was coming through the flash hole excessively, I’d surely consider a liner change. I haven’t shot that many rounds through a single rifle….While most of my liners have flash holes that are 1/16” size, I have in recent years started with a #53 drill(.0595”), and have had...

I have been an avid user of TOTW Mink Oil for +20 years. Not too sure about the other “Mink Oil labeled products”, particularly those designed for treating leather, But IMO, the TOTW product sure seems to have been developed for the expressed purpose of performing as a patch lube and...

After cleaning, I will oil my lock/flint/breach. Before shooting, I will wipe down my flint(edge), frizzen face, pan, and run a pipe cleaner through my flash hole with alcohol(or other oil displacing solvent). Never had and issue with sparking/ignition.

From my experience with LRB’s exclusively, high velocity//large velocity (<40-50 yards), has been that at the closer ranges high velocity usually results in major expansion of the ball, large wound channels, and full penetration or the expanded or fragmented ball just under the far hide. At...

For my hunting rifles/loads I keep it simple and use a 50 yard zero. For the rare 100 yard shot my hold-overs run less then 5-6 inches…a high shoulder shot on a whitetail.

IMO, the ability to “season” a barrel like a cast iron frying pan has much to do with the grade/type of steel(iron content) that the barrel is made. My only ML that has the appearance/behavior of being genuinely seasoned is my Western Arms, Santa Fe Hawken which is over 40 years old, and, only...

Out of curiosity, I bought the Kibler starter kit and some wood carving tools. After practice sessions on various pieces of stock, I realized that the investment in time and practice to deliver good results were well beyond my available time, and capabilities. I did however manage to carve a...

Ran into this interesting photo some years back…..Just about everything one could imagine…but no short starter…

Since I began deer hunting with my muzzleloaders in the late 70’s, I have used PLRB’s, black powder, open sights, and still/stand hunted from the ground. My longest shot was 110 paces, but the bulk of my deer have been taken at at 25-60 yards. I will hunt “very light” rain/snow using a lock...