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The K at the end of the serial number on the barrel.

I have for sale a left hand .50 caliber Thompson Center Renegade that I bought for my wife. She said to sell it because she likes the .32 caliber Traditions Crockett better. I bought this rifle from a Gun Broker seller that did not disclose that the barrel had some light pitting on the outside...

I got mine about mid April and here it is December. I did not work on the kit full time due to grandkids, travel, ranch work etc... Slow is good which makes for more progress. Fast is not good because you have to go back and fix things. I learned a lot from working on the build. Hopefully...

Not a bad piece of wood for being their standard grade. I highly recommend the iron nitrate (Aqua Fortis) finish with the Tried & True varnish oil. It really brings out the features of the wood.

TDM, go with it and don't look back. Look forward to seeing your build. If you run into a problem, be sure and ask how to fix it on this forum. One of us will have the answer so as not to bother Jim Kibiler. He is nice enough to return a call but you can always tell from the noise in the...

I finally finished my Kibler SMR today with the installation of the lock that Jim Kibler so kindly fixed. The rifle is finished with 4 coats of Tried & True varnish oil over iron nitrate as per one of Kibler's videos. I fire blued the steel parts. Do not fire blue the frizzen like I did and...

So true, except for me they all get used even the less expensive ones. 😂 They all have their own shooting characteristics so feed them accordingly.

Back in the mid 80s I used pyrodex in my .45 cal. TC Hawken with a maxi-ball. This was before I knew better but it worked quite well and I even took a Texas whitetail. Lots of learning back then by reading because there were no forums back then. Besides, personal computers were just starting...

Just used on my new Kibler SMR to repair a small chip. After overnight drying, I lightly sanded an added some stain then Tried & True Oil. The wife couldn't find the repair. Take a damp paper towel and wipe off the excess and let it dry. If you can, clamp it. If not, wrap it with painters tape.

Here is the latest. I got a call from Lorie at Kibler Longrifiles telling me she is shipping my lock back today. That is a pretty fast turn around since I mailed it to them last Thursday. Jim looked the lock over and all he did was replace the frizzen with a new one. Not worth his time to...

I was afraid to put any more heat on it for fear of scorching it.

Thank you sir. My dad was a mechanic and he told me to screw up my own stuff, that way I could learn from it. Hope this helps another soul not to make the same mistake.

I tried the aqua fortis on my SMR hickory ramrod. It did not darken much. I used two coats and that didn't darken much. I'll leave the contrast as is. It doesn't look odd.

In retrospect, I should have cold blued it all. Jim will fix it and I will cold blue the frizzen when it gets back.

I talked to Lorie at Kibler Longrifles this morning because Jim was super busy. She said Jim will fix it so I shipped the lock off a while ago. Will let you all know what the fix was. Thanks to all with that offered advice.

I am building a 30 Ford Coupe hot rod and have done some dumb things with it already. :doh: Luckily I can weld my mistakes. 😆

Tried it both ways, no joy.

It is an illusion in the photo. The flint is brand new and sharp enough to cut my finger. Tried a different flint and nothing.

With exception of the side plate, cock and frizzen, none of the other parts were heated. They are perfectly fine.

I disassembled the whole lock and did not heat any of the springs or internals. Only fire blued the lock plate, cock and back side of the frizzen.