One thing I noticed is that the flint needs to be bevel down. It appears the flint is way too high.
Did I do something Stupid??
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So do I. Then I answer myself; yeah ya dumb ass!
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
I haven’t done anything stupid today, but it’s early! 
Just a novice question here, but is the cock usually hardened, or just left as cast? On the rare times I've seen them fail, they usually break and not bend -so I've thought the frizzen and cock are both hardened.
?? There are plenty of videos and articles on how to do this. Jim even has a video on it.
I don't ask myself that question any longer, I already know the truth and it ain't pretty.....
On better locks all the parts get at least surface or case hardening. Some hammers (like CVA) are often broken when folks attempt to bend them to correct nipple contact. Long ago we rehardened customers frizzens using just Casenite powder but not sure how they are now.
Tried it both ways, no joy.
I am building a 30 Ford Coupe hot rod and have done some dumb things with it already.
Luckily I can weld my mistakes. 
I talked to Lorie at Kibler Longrifles this morning because Jim was super busy. She said Jim will fix it so I shipped the lock off a while ago. Will let you all know what the fix was.
Thanks to all with that offered advice.
Maybe this old thread might help:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kasenit-for-hardening-frizzen.23638/
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kasenit-for-hardening-frizzen.23638/
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I do dumb things all the time. The reason I know that is because my wife keeps me informed.
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The cock is usually left as is. If it needs to be bent, it should be bent while red hot although I have made minor tweaks with some being cold, it is risky. The cast cock can be thermal cycled which can make it a bit less prone to failure. However, if a casting has an internal void, there is no cure. It will either perform as it should or fail sooner or later. In quite a few years of experience repairing, modifying, locks, actions, and guns, I have replaced just two cocks due to breakage in the field. One percussion, one flint. Frizzens do sometimes break. They take a lot of punishment, and some are made with a stronger design than others. Frizzens require some tempering after a proper hardening to lessen the chance, but it happens. Steel casting has come a long way in the last few years and in many cases be only very slightly behind forged strength. Even for springs.
I can relate. I restored/rebuilt a 65 Mustang. I learned to call my screwups "resto-mods".I am building a 30 Ford Coupe hot rod and have done some dumb things with it already.
I spent 3 years working on it and when it was pretty much done (their never really done) I was driving it to a get together and got t-boned by a guy and driven into a fireplug =Totaled.
hanshi
Cannon
Yep, you screwed up. Since you returned the lock for repair all recommendations are now moot. However, when you get it back make sure to flip the flint over.
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That's the saddest thing I've heard today.
Yeah, that happened three years ago and I'm still crying about it.
There are videos on disassemble and reassembling locks, but not actually fixing or tuning.
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hopefully Jim will reharden the plate also. if it was softened the axle would wallow out the bearing surfaces pretty quick
