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Both browning and bluing are chemical treatments intended to handle the iron oxidizing in some other fashion than what rust is. In theory once all easy chemical work is done there is no more unreacted iron so no rust Regular rust isnt a controlled reaction so you may end up with pitting etc...

My only under lever is a 10/22. And my ARs with long mags. But everything including a buddys win94 can be shot and worked with rest and bag up front and bag at rear You just need the height A Caldwell sled works too but is harder to get good sight picture and cheekweld for me

Treading into dangerous land to say this but there are also conversion nipples to go to a 209 primer. The ones Ive seen online use a screw on cap above the primer with a firing pin built in kinda like the cartridge conversion cylinders for c&b revolvers

My dad's side of the family came down from Canada to the Iowa area about 10 years before the War Between the States... not sure what they did in Canada or for how long, but they had been established there for a generation or two from what I understand. Remember the Great Lakes were all known...

So about a 13gr-equiv on a powder measure for those wondering...

Ask in the gunshops and pawnshops, you could be surprised. Buddy score a 45 CVA in need of some love for $30.

More than the tools I want the skills abd know how to use them But I am a mechanical dummy. On the other hand, math and logic and programming in a variety of languages is trvial for me so it kinda evens out in the end

Dont forget that unless you already shoot bp you are going to need/want $50-75 worth of extras for cleaning and shooting in addition to the cost of gun

One more "my first is an Uberti made 1858 clone" and I couldnt be happier with it As far as shooting it goes I use 30gr 3Fg with a heavily criscoed wad between powder and ball. Balls are 451 or 454 whichever gives a tiny lead shave ring when seating

Skeet targets. While they are now "safe" (they used to be made with lots of strychnine to make 'em fragile) I'd still lay some tarp or something down on the ground under the target station to catch a majority of the fragments and make clean up easy. Depending on time of year, Matzah crackers...

While not too unusual it is cool, and what is even better is that it is cool to YOU. It is also how the Japanese get square watermelons - they just put the fruit in a box as it grows. They do this to maximize shipping efficiency since it all costs so much (a mostly ripe melon is almost a...

My normal used gun stuff (boogered up screws/missing screws, wrong replacement screws or other parts, proper function of all parts including fire control group, etc) includes "rust" in the list... whether surface rust/browning from age and storage or a barrel like a sewer pipe from abuse...

Looks very similar to my CVA Lynx .54 Same vintage from what little info on the lynx i can find

Howdy from up the road in Gainesville

50 cal (most big box store stuff is 50 and there is a larger variety of bullet choices) percussion that is traditional design but modern materials and finishes Chrome lined bores or maybe stainless or nitride treated etc Laminate stock or maybe ultra light barrel of thinner steel and carbon...

Just be aware of state laws if you do a cartridge conversion. At the federal level it becomes a regular firearm requiring 4473 etc. if you sell it with the conversion cylinder

One more vote for steel frame 1858 type. Cadillac of 'em being the Ruger. After that, I'd say Uberti - I like my Lyman branded one, made same year I was. Consider extra cylinders or conversion cylinders ...

A slightly more complete scotchbrite equiv chart than above -

Got one for my .54 off Amazon for $11.... General brand, Hollow Steel Punch.

Im either shooting groups or steel