Buying Used - What Do You Look For?

[Urban Coyote]

When contemplating buying a used muzzleloader what things do you look for to assess condition? I'm asking about both in person and online offerings.

Online seemed to be about the only place to find a good selection used muzzleloaders these days and can be a risky proposition, despite my caution I've been burned a few times.

If bidding look for the obvious feedback, number of auctions completed, shipping costs, inspection and return policy, item description and closely inspect photos with special attention to the stock for cracks, lock and bolster areas for rust and sights but it's nearly impossible to tell bore condition unless there's obvious rust shown at the muzzle. I also try to look at the sights to determine how much adjustment appears to be left in them. Example, if one or both of the sights have extreme adjustment shown in a photo I get concerned the gun might shoot off to one side, high or low.

 

[NorthFork]

Bore Bore Bore. Oh did I mention the condition of the bore. If not then bore, bore, bore. A POS cosmetically will shoot better than a pristine example with a sewer pipe bore any day of the week and twice on Sunday.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

When I’m looking over the used guns, I’m usually looking for a certain type of gun…double barrel shotgun, Fusil de Chase, Early Plains rifle; or I might be looking for a specific calibre, etc…

Once I find what I’m looking for, or stumble into something that I didn’t know I couldn’t live without, I want to see the bore…what condition is the bore. A few guns I’ve purchased as a re-barrel project gun from the start, but I always want to see the bore.

If it’s a flintlock, I want to see where the flash hole orients to the pan. I want to see general fit and finish…beyond that I can pretty much fix it myself, or I can find someone locally who can fix it…

 

[Kansas Jake]

Buying used is what I have done with most of the muzzleloaders I own. My criteria are something I want, bargain price, good condition or repairable by me with limited expense or very cheap if i might have to pay someone. I’ve picked up a few projects just because I was able to make a deal. A recent example was a TC 50 cal. Renegade for $85. It needs sights installed which I have, a ramrod and has some minor pitting at first couple of inches in the bore. Another example is a Pieta 1858 Remington revolver from a pawn shop for $65. This was a couple of years ago. It had minor rust on the cylinder pin that locked the cylinder. PB Blaster spray, and letting it sit overnight and it came loose and was an easy fix. Everything else on it was good or better. If I didn’t think I could fix them I would have passed. Also the prices paid were not the asking price. I haggled.

 

[granth]

I look for bore condition, and cosmetic defects. If I REALLY want a gun, I'll overlook cosmetic condition and I'll fix it up or live with it.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

For me,

1. Bore condition
2. Mechanics/Geometry
3. Any major repairs
4. Fit
5. Finish
**If it's antique, availability of lock parts becomes #3.**

Obviously these are harder to assess when buying online. It's kind of a crapshoot if the seller is just listing estate items and doesn't know anything about guns.

 

[deerstalkert]

criteria changes with the age of the gun.
contemporary manufactured guns are assessed by bore condition, then lock function, then completeness of parts, then cosmetic. new guns (anything built since 1960) i can always renew the cosmetics.
Antique guns are a little more to the uniqueness, followed by completeness/damage/repairs. then bore condition and price. and how much it talks to me.

 

[ohio ramrod]

As stated the condition of the bore is critical ,all else can be fixed reasonably easy unless it is obviously broken/

 

[sheriff john]

If I'm buying a "keeper" - overall condition and price. If it's a "project" - what needs to be fixed, parts availability, price. Fact learned the hard way ...junk remains junk no matter how long you keep it.

 

[SOLANCO]

It has been a good while since I bought a new gun, with the exception of a flintlock rifle built for me.
These days, this forum is my most likely place to find a used gun. I agree with all the advice above, but the very first thing I check is how long the seller has been a member. Nobody joined here two years ago to scam members. But if you joined yesterday to sell today? I am sorry, but that is a red flag for me.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Has anyone mentioned bore condition yet?

 

[DixieTexian]

It has been a good while since I bought a new gun, with the exception of a flintlock rifle built for me.
These days, this forum is my most likely place to find a used gun. I agree with all the advice above, but the very first thing I check is how long the seller has been a member. Nobody joined here two years ago to scam members. But if you joined yesterday to sell today? I am sorry, but that is a red flag for me.

If you use the same user name and password across multiple sites, you can be hacked and someone can try and scam others using your user name. It happened to me. I looked at the classifieds section and there were two rifles for sale by me that I never owned. I immediately reported myself, changed the password, and logged out of all other devices.

 

[SOLANCO]

If you use the same user name and password across multiple sites, you can be hacked and someone can try and scam others using your user name. It happened to me. I looked at the classifieds section and there were two rifles for sale by me that I never owned. I immediately reported myself, changed the password, and logged out of all other devices.

Good point, but I do not do that. The lowlifes are everywhere and they multiply like cockroaches.

 

[springfield art]

Bore Bore Bore. Oh did I mention the condition of the bore. If not then bore, bore, bore. A POS cosmetically will shoot better than a pristine example with a sewer pipe bore any day of the week and twice on Sunday.

Not to mention the flash pathway from nipple to bore. Often they're not that clean and can become corroded over time. But you can't just see it casually.

 

[brushblind]

My first question will be "how did you clean it and what with?" If they say well I just wiped the barrel with Hoppes solvent or WD40, I will walk away unless I need it for parts. Check the bore first, then the lock, lastly the stock and furniture. Nothing wrong with either product I mentioned but not for BP guns although Hoppes did at one time make a specific BP solvent, not sure if they still do.

 

[NorthFork]

Not to mention the flash pathway from nipple to bore. Often they're not that clean and can become corroded over time. But you can't just see it casually.

I absolutely agree with this as well!

 

[hanshi]

Has anyone mentioned bore condition yet?

No, so I'll mention it. Bore condition is paramount, then lock and ignition channel. I'd trust the classifieds and wouldn't fool with someone that I didn't know a little about; like a solid member of this forum, for example. Oh, and check the bore.

 

[new2bp]

My normal used gun stuff (boogered up screws/missing screws, wrong replacement screws or other parts, proper function of all parts including fire control group, etc) includes "rust" in the list... whether surface rust/browning from age and storage or a barrel like a sewer pipe from abuse, corrosive ammo (cartridge or loose powder), etc and so on.

I guess specifically for muzzle loaders I'd move rust higher up the list in order of things to check.

 

[Willy]

I rarely ever run across a used muzzleloader for sale. Most shops won't take in a used one and say they can't hardly sell them.

 

[new2bp]

I rarely ever run across a used muzzleloader for sale. Most shops won't take in a used one and say they can't hardly sell them.

Ask in the gunshops and pawnshops, you could be surprised. Buddy score a 45 CVA in need of some love for $30.