Search results

Do you happen to have a picture of this setup? Sounds interesting.

It should be able to be done. I've forged triggers using mild steel by clamping in a vise and start peening the edge with a ball peen hammer. Use the vise jaws to get the flat edge. I've done triggers both cold forging and heating the metal and both worked fine. Then use a file to do your clean up.

I really enjoy the magazine. There's usually a wide range of content and always great pictures and photography. There have been some delays with issues mailing on time lately, just an FYI.

$31 shipped

$60 shipped.

$31 shipped.

Very neat Dave, looks like a pile of work. Look forward to seeing it when finished.

Just another thought. If you just did the finish work, let the gun sit a week or two before doing anything. After it all cures the lid might fit properly again.

Use a pencil to mark the lid dovetail and that will act as your 'inlet black'. You'll be able to see where you are hitting and can remove material from that spot only. I wouldn't remove material willy nilly on the lid or the box.

Ditch it and prime from the horn.

If I go out in regular rifle season at all, I carry a flintlock. I like to wait until after the first couple days till most of the crowd is gone. Haven't hunted deer with a centerfire in many years now.

Very nice looking rifle. You mention the fly and no set trigger. It doesn't happen to have a single set trigger does it? I have a Krider target rifle that you push the trigger forward to set. Looks like it'll be a fun one to get back in service.

Heck yeah, that's pretty neat.

Glad it worked out, heat always helps.

Could also try a regular old wrench, use the open end of a box end wrench, might get more leverage than the T style wrench provides.

It looks like mold and lead need to be hotter. Doesn't look like you got full fill out. Heat the mold on the edge of the pot while the pot is coming to temp. I doubt the grill lighter did much at all.

Yeah I see what you mean, it could be too close. I'd probably try the penetrating oil/time/heat and see how that goes first. I can still measure the Cash socket if you're interested.

Couldn't say for sure, I can take any measurements you'd want if that'd help. I assume that's a musket nipple size?

Also the Ted Cash nipple wrenchs in my opinion are way better than the T styles.

I wouldn't get it on the finish of the wood. Just get a drop or 2 on to let it seep into the threads. May need to repeat applications over several days.