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I use musket caps on all of mine (minus a few in the safe that I haven't converter yet and don't shoot much). I feel like I get better ignition with them, and they're easier to handle in the woods with cold hands and/or gloves on.

They're in stock at Graf's right now. Have been every time I've checked for the past year or so.

Musket caps are all I use. I have a few Thompson Centers with them and they work great. I usually shoot real black powder, I can't speak for Triple Seven, but I've shot them with Pyrodex and they light off just fine. A big bonus to me is that they're easier to handle with gloves or cold hands.

Which generation is at fault for that?

You can gently heat the area around it with a heat gun then cold shock the nipple itself with a product called "freeze-off" (or canned air duster held upside down). Sometimes that will contract the male threads faster than the female threads and break the bond.

Why not? They already have mounts on them. Sure I could take them off and plug the holes, but then they'd be just like the other 20 muzzleloaders in the safe. Figured I'd try something different.

I use one. It's the larger of the two models that Harbor Freight sells. I'm sure there are better ones out there but it works great. It's also handy for carburetor parts and anything else that you can fit in it.

I have a couple half stock Hawken style hunting rifles (a TC Renegade and a Lyman Trade) that I bought secondhand with scopes already mounted on them. They're nice rifles and they shoot fine, but I hate the way the newer scopes look on these guns. I usually hunt with peep sights, so I don't...

There are no buyer protections if you select the "friends and family" option. If you send money that way and it turns out to be a scam, they won't do anything about it.

If an online store only accepts Zelle or Paypal F&F it's almost a guaranteed scam. KyGunCo. has them in stock, I don't have any experience ordering caps from them personally, but I know it's a real place. KYGUNCO I'm not sure where you're at in California, but Sportsman's Warehouse shows them...

The "top of can vs bottom of can" variation is probably nitpicking a little unless you're shooting serious competition. It matters, but other factors matter as much if not more... brand (or even lot) of powder, consistency in loading practice, projectile weight, patch thickness, etc... all...

It's definitely not all the same, but for this application it's probably all the same. What I mean by that is, there are a lot of different types of anti-seize compounds with different properties. They're usually some type of friction modifier suspended in a grease. A few are molybdenum...

It's all about when and where you find them. I've paid as little as $80 to over $350 for nice ones, that's about my upper limit. Earlier this year I bought one at an auction for $220 in brand new condition, with the manual and warranty card still zip tied to the trigger guard. The deals are out...

I don't have to outrun the bear, I just have to outrun my brother in law.

If everyone had that attitude, we wouldn't have the tenderest, most tasty salmon!

Grains is ALWAYS a measure of weight. Powder measures are a way of approximating a charge based on an assumed density of 1.72-1.80 grams/cc, which is the standard for commercial powder. That's the purpose of measuring the weight of a charge against the powder measure, to verify the actual charge...

Nah, in case I have a sudden need to be able to outrun my fishing buddy.

I always carry a .32 pistol when I go fishing in bear country.

I agree, a rebore is likely the best route, but it never hurts to clean it up and see what it looks like. Evaporust works very well, but keep in mind that any chemical rust remover will also instantly remove bluing. If you care about the exterior finish, be very careful that you don't get it on...

That's a better explanation than I've found anywhere else, I appreciate you taking the time to write it up. I'll be trying this soon.