Need advice on rusty barrel

[Sergissimo]

Hello Everyone!

I have found quite a few discussions here on how to remove rust. Vinegar and Evapo-rust seem to be the most popular solutions. However, I’d like to hear your opinion on my particular case.

The attached image shows the barrel’s current state. I don’t know if this can be considered too much rust, or not a lot, or something in between. But the whole insides of the barrel is rusty.

What would be the best approach here?

Thank you!

 

[hawkeye2]

It looks pretty poor. I would start with a stainless bore brush and remove all the rust I could that way. Evapo-Rust would be next.

 

[Campbell]

Evaporust will take that right out

 

[Col. Batguano]

Tomato stake.

 

[SlidePicker]

Before using any chemical or abrasive, I'd boil it in water. After a half hour or so boiling, rust will rub off easily with a piece of wood, often cloth or even paper towel, leaving rust bluing behind. That always looks better than bright, scraped steel.

 

[bldtrailer]

send to B Hoyt for a rebore

 

[SlidePicker]

I can't find the "before" picture at the moment, but this was covered with heavy orange rust. This "agter" picture was taken less than an hour later, after boiling, rubbing with half of a wooden clothespi, then polishing lightly with 0000 steel wool and kerosene, then oiling.

 

[hanshi]

That barrel may need Bobby Hoyt's skills for a rebore. Not sure how much "good" will be left once the rust is removed.

 

[brownac1983]

I agree, a rebore is likely the best route, but it never hurts to clean it up and see what it looks like. Evaporust works very well, but keep in mind that any chemical rust remover will also instantly remove bluing. If you care about the exterior finish, be very careful that you don't get it on the outside of the barrel.

 

[waarp8nt]

Brownells has a method of using stainless steel wool wrapped around a bore brush soaked in Kroil. Scrub the bore thoroughly and clean out the mess. The method does not remove pitting, even so it typically makes for a very shootable barrel. I have done this to a used T/C barrel and found it to shoot as well as any other in my collection.

You can get the stainless steel wool at most hardware stores or Walmart for substantially less than Brownells asking price.

https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=12621

 

[Loja man]

Save the components from the gun. Look for a new barrel that fits!! Send me the ruined barrel!! I have been needing one to try my hand at pipe hawks!! ;-)

 

[Okie Hog]

send to B Hoyt for a rebore

Yes!!!!

Send the barrel to Bobby Hoyt for a re-bore.

 

[Sergissimo]

Thanks very much for your input guys!

I think I'll start with less invasive approach first and then go chemicals. I'd rather try different methods instead of flushing the barrel right from the start. I will be posting results here. But first I need to get my equipment ready I'm basically a few days into muzzleloading. The barrel is from the gun I bough as a wall hanger so I can get my hand dirty and learn about the subject by doing. As for sending the barrel for re-bore or donating it, let's first see how it shows after cleaning.

Speaking of the barrel. I'm trying to identify it with not much success so far in this post:

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/need-help-identifying-this-smoothbore.151664/
P.S. It looks like tomato stake won over vinegar based on mentions at least

 

[Rawhide67]

Looks like a smoothbore to me. Why not clean it, check for pits, if they aren't deep, shoot it.

No need to spend money on a rebore if it's still shootable.

Be careful with vinegar. If there is bluing left on the outside of the barrel and vinegar gets on it, you won't like the outcome. Speckled bluing removal. Made that mistake once when someone told me to try vinegar.

 

[sheriff john]

Used the "Brownell" method for many years on M/L's and unmentionables. I use an electric drill when I want to polish, sometimes small-grit emory cloth in a split rod. I only use one-piece rods b/c multiple - piece ones can become unscrewed, stuck, or broken.

Kroil is my friend for the first go-around, slop in on, let the first coat work, hit it again. Several times, valve-grinding paste. Pits in shotgun bores haven't been a real problem for me unless the barrel's damascus and thin. Understand, I'm only shooting shot loads, not ball, and not rifled bores. Might not be a problem for some, but damascus shotgun barrels are worrisome to me. If I can't screw it up, most anyone can clean up a smoothbore.

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Hone the crap out of it and make it a smooth bore.
Scotch Brite wrapped around a bore brush works good.

 

[sturmkatze]

Why not boil it in water, a was suggested above by slidepicker. You said that you're new to muzzleloaders, so perhaps instead of going off and doing your own thing, listen to others. Start with the least invasive method -- the boiling water.

Evaporust works good, just not on springs. It will remove any finish. Have you asked a gunsmith? They are these legendary creatures that are actually TRAINED in things like this.

 

[Sergissimo]

Why not boil it in water, a was suggested above by slidepicker. You said that you're new to muzzleloaders, so perhaps instead of going off and doing your own thing, listen to others. Start with the least invasive method -- the boiling water.

If I only had a big enough pot

 

[Sergissimo]

Have you asked a gunsmith? They are these legendary creatures that are actually TRAINED in things like this.

I thought I was in the right place already

 

[Rifleman1776]

learn about the subject by doing

Good on you. That is a big part of what this ml avocation is all about. Welcome.