Ditto! Many years back, I did the same thing at about 35 yards. No blood or visible injuries until the coup de grace was applied. I did find the big old wad laying beside him however :dunno:
Guess reasonable distance can have a miraculous dimesion as well
Sure, you can. Just about any pan will work (though I like enamelled pots best). I started out boiling the stuff together to get it to dissolve amd integrate with cord faster; nowdays I just heat a pan of water to near boiling and then remove it from heat before addinng the KNO3. Stir gently...
Simple screened powder begins as serpentine, with the additional step of being screened for size and packaged as is. it is noticelably LESS DENSE than commercial corned powder. Virtually all of this simple screened propellant is made by hobbyists and not available commercially.
Corned powder...
Well, your stories, philosophy, and unique style ought to be collated and published for future posterity. I daresay they are absolutely one-of-a-kind; a real trove of useful information and historical insights!
Yessir, indeed! Some of your stories put me in mind of his style. A real treat to hear / read of all the travels and escapades you share. Thanks so much for your contributions here - you are much appreciated!
Wow, great stories!
I've not heard W O Gs in use for more than 50 years...last time was from Bob Ruark. He styled it as a Worthy Oriental Gentleman. Definitely a piece of spoken history now I suppose. The locals back then may have initially received it as a compliment but soon tired of it...
Not sure on the time to 'dry out'. If you're concerned about that, consider dribbling a bit of thinned down Olive oil into the muzzle of loaded barrel. Then let your gun stand upright for a while so it soaks into that loaded wad.
Grandad showed us how to do powder measuring in the field by holding a ball in the (slightly cupped) hand, then pouring powder over it until it was almost covered. Pluck out the ball, pour powder into barrel, drop the ball in followed by wad or leaves and ram it down tightly seated. Try this...
Thank you for attempting to assist them in updating etc. Love the idea for permanently archiving too!
I did save some of the Tromner data to a backup drive, but not nearly all I would like to have. His detailed photos are absolutely without equal....
The Vikingsword dot com website is down - anyone have another source to access Michael Tromner's resources?
I've tried several Ethnographic Arms links without much success...
They're tough hombres - literally! And, those tusshes are honed razor sharp to rip and tear meat. You have to be careful with hogs.
If you want good eating ribs, go for the smaller young'uns.
I re-visited the pics; it seems that picture #4 did show an overall view of the right side of the arm, but only when clicked to enlarge it!
It would be nice to see the overall shots of the left side, the top, and bottom of the weapon.
Thanks
You may be on the right track here; the old time standard was to use Willow charcoal. No way to test it myself, but I generally take note of what was considered good stuff in the historical setting.
For your matchlock aplication, you need only a mild spring to return the scear arm and serpentine to the "up and away" position. Even a mild steel could be work hardened sufficiently to perform the task, but now others have given you have some excellent advice for obtaining truly high quality...