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In a sticky is a forum member's recipes. Ive been using it for years. I have 5 tubes left of T/C 1000+ bore butter left. Paid $2 a tube awhile back. When its gone, I will revert to the recipe found here.

When I had a production gun, I was going to convert it to double sets. I was told by several not to and build one with double sets in it. So I gave that rifle away and built one. Now I cant do without them. So I did. May get another one, it will be built that way also.

I use a crayon, seal the frizzen and pan. Every fall when I go to the high country, it has never not fired in the rain or snow. JB Weld is a tad to permanent for me.

My first horn I made a braided black sinew strap. My current one came with a leather strip one. Works well in the rain. The cloth ones tend to stretch in the wet.

If you want a poor boy, get a Kibler Southern and decorate it any which way you want. Dont undo a master builders work.

These are very custom guns. Not cutting a dovetail should be an easy thing to do. Unless the barrel comes from the barrel maker already cut. So I wanted to know how much lead time they would need not to cut the dovetail. I will email them when I get closer to the buy date.

You may want to buy another one

Quit them and Flea bay too.

Yup Dixie still sells them. I take mine a part every 5 years or so and clean it and put it back together. Powder can be a bugger to get in the tiny hole, but the end results are worth it. As far as I know, yes. This is a copy of a real one. Maybe some one retrofit the one that was copied. We...

Im looking at the Southern, and it has no nose piece. And iron furniture. All my favorites. Not liking the hole in the stock for a patch recess.

After seeing this video, what took me 5 months to make my first one. Looks like I could do this is 1-2 weekend. I would say this is impeccably built. Here is my question. Can you have an option to NOT have the rear dovetail cut? Us old gas bags would have to cut a second dovetail further down...

This next season you make sludge via the oil in that stuff.

News to me, but Ive not done anything with flinters since I built mine in 2005. Now I just shoot the heck out of it.

New flinter folk, YOU need this.

I drop a few ingots in, heat it up to max, then drop in some wood shavings (Pat Martins). It loosens are the build up on the sides and bottom. then I pour it all out. 99% of the yuk comes out.

One of a kind. Less than $10 bucks from Goodwill. This was a ladies wool scarf, some yarn and liner from Joann Fabric.

I have to differ with you on this. This are both great locks. You have to tune all of them. My Chamber's Late Ketland was tuned by ole man Rice. I got lucky and got the best of both worlds. Now here is my beef. If you buy a Chamber's lock. The ONLY place you can get parts or repair is from...

I can not get behind the wooden flint thing. If the wood breaks, you still looking at a hammer stretch. I use old flints or misfit flints. Ones I would not use when hunting.

When we were kids we would go to a place in eastern WA that were abandoned lead mines. We picked up broken nodules and take them home and melt the lead out of them. The world has been doing it since the Roman days. Much later in 1873 the Army didnt issue cartridges. You had to make them. So...

Some can,, some dont. It s pig in the poke buy. Taking a chance with your hard earned money. DO you feel lucky? Well do ya Like I said above, the lock got fixed, and the rest of the gun fell a part.