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Well bless your heart., you have it all under control! I really think you should work on something other than single actions as you don't seem to understand them. You're quite the enigma. Some days you actually make sense although it's rare and other times you go completely off the rails. All...

What about the cap fragments that get pulled off and drop in the frame under the hammer?

I have yet to shoot a Walker one handed. But I almost always use both hands no matter if it's a pocket pistol or a 1911.

And a short arbor on open tops and excessive end shake on the Remmies.

I have repaired a few that were worse than that one. Last major job was on a 2nd model Dragoon that was at the paperweight stage. It was resurrected and it has become one of my favorite shooters. Yours can be brought back to life and made into a solid and reliable piece. PM me if you want more info.

There is a much simpler fix that involves a little file work at the latch spring. When its done right it works very well. My own Walkers do not drop the lever.

Big issue with the 5 shot pocket pistols is throw by or over rotation of the cylinder. You need a .002 barrel/cylinder gap and a good spring behind the hand to act as a brake slowing down the cylinder. Bolt drop timing is real touchy as there is very little wiggle room to work with. A cap post...

I am personally not a fan of the pocket pistols as far as tuning them goes. There is just no real estate to work with. I recently did a tune on an1862 pocket model that the owner was ready to throw in the nearest lake. It would not only suck caps but would also blow the hammer back to the half...

He's off his meds again.

How true, you could send it Mike or myself and get it tuned properly. It's getting hard to find someone who really understands the single action revolvers.

I have personally run across a few Walkers that no matter what you did to the hammer face it pulled caps. A cap post was the only answer.

Interesting. What about those rifles that are "coned" which is basically a counter bore? They shoot just fine. The cost for a cylinder alone is more than I charge for tuning and repairing any issues plus you really don't know if the cylinder is gonna need fitting and so far we haven't seen what...

Once again he shows that he doesn't understand the platform. And again the argument here is taking that turn away from the original statement, and what was said about the closed frame vs open frame. It applies mainly to Remington vs Colt open top designs. The open top is a stronger design over...

And once again where is the documented proof? A ball that's swaged into place will seal as well a cut one or better. It's you pistol you load it how ever you want. I just get tired of hearing this shave a ring off the ball crap over and over when there's no documentation on it and absolutely no...

It's happening because of improper set up, too much barrel/cylinder gap and a short arbor on the Ubertis. The cylinder is acting like a slide hammer and beating up the recoil shield and pulling the arbor out of the frame. Agreed the Walkers are lots of fun. A cap post along with an action...

Why are you wanting to cut a ring of lead off the ball? Have you ever seen any documentation from Colt, Remington or any other manufacturer of the original pistols stating a ring of lead has to be cut from a ball during loading? I have yet to see anything that specifically states you have to cut...

Having the proper chamfer at the chamber mouth helps a lot too.

Simple solution is to chamfer the chamber mouths so you can start a .45 ACP bullet squarely. I like to yun a 5 degree reamer in the chamber mouth to a 1/4 inch. Doe's a couple of things, you can use a ball without shaving lead and use a 45 ACP bullet as well.

I have a couple of pistols that are packed with grease that I haven't seen the need to detail strip in 2 years. If you decide to do it use the hi temp stuff.

Or fix whats there for 220.00