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Large whole in the center sounds like a sharp muzzle cutting the patch during loading. Pictures would help.

Joe and Suzi have a good reputation. Their shop is in Springfield, Or.. Not sure of their time frame. http://www.thegunworks.com/custprodgun.cfm?ProductID=2543&do=detail&Cat2Option=yes

Our BP designated range (it was originally set up as BP only) is also now a rimfire and silhouette range so we get all kinds of modern firearms in the mix. Flintlock shooters are required to use a shield of some type to prevent anyone on the next bench over from getting hit with the vent blast...

Check out Pedersoli. They have several different flint target pistol models that have won in International Competitions. Mortimer, Charles Moore, LePage, etc.. The Gun Works in Springfield Oregon also makes a flint target pistol.

Are you planning on shooting this in competition or is it just for your own amusement? If it's for competition, the rules can get pretty specific depending on the type of match and we could end up recommending something that wouldn't be legal. In any case, tell us what your plans for it are.

When I'm out paper punching, I use spit for lube in my .32. .318" ball and .018" drill patch. Keeps things running for 25+ shots.

FWIW, rough rule of thumb is one mph of crosswind component results in one inch of drift at 100 yds..Yeah, PRB drifts in the wind.

FWIW, the OP hasn’t been around for two weeks. He asked his question, got what he wanted and probably will never be heard from again.

group-size-measuring.html

I've checked my first shot POI and it doesn't vary enough to warrant fouling the barrel. Plus I don't like walking around with a fouled flintlock as the fouling absorbs moisture out of the air. Like sussex, I just use alcohol to remove any oils before loading.

People have been ruining shotgun barrels with airgun BB's ever since steel shot became mandatory. Even using steel shot wads its not recommended.

No. A PRB will do everything you need for small game and paper punching.

The military primed first because the prime came from the paper cartridge. Tear cartridge, prime, close frizzen, switch ends and finish loading with the rest of the cartridge going down the barrel. Priming last would have involved additional steps and slowed the process. As others have stated...

FWIW, RB BC from .32 to .58 runs from .04 to .07. Don't think you get to a .1 until you hit .70 caliber. As for near range zero its usually around 12-15 yds.

Not to be a wet blanket, but if you haven’t done enough research to even know what type of firearm you’re talking about, then worrying about duplicating an historically accurate muzzle flash is pretty pointless. While matchlocks may have been prevalent, there were also wheel locks and dog locks...

Our club skeet/trap/5 stand went a bit overboard on rules in the name of safety. Actions open and empty was no longer good enough, they also started requiring chamber flags in pumps and semi autos even when walking between shooting stations, which goes well beyond anything required at other...

Not sure where you’re located. Recently bought a couple 25lb bags of 9’s at Sportsman’s Warehouse. $45 per bag. Shot prices have been peaked around that price point for a number of years now. Don’t think we’ll ever see $12 a bag again. Newtire beat me to it.

Might want to include the wind speed used in the calculation

A rough rule of thumb is at 100 yds, expect 1 inch of drift for every 1 mph of crosswind component. There are RB ballistics calculators out there if you care to google them.

The rifled version of the LePage is a .44, smoothbore is a .45. Opposite of the Moore.