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I have also seen a few of those over the years. I have an unmarked mule ear lock that I have reason to believe also was produced by him at one time. He worked in the optical grinding industry if memory serves, so he certainly would have had the connections to make runs of locks.

Think you guys are short changing a lot of these programs. While CNC programming/operation is a major part, they are all still taught basic manual operation.

I picked up one from Track last week. Compared to a couple original underhammer pistols in my collection it is a bit bulky, but it is still well built.

You have to remember that by the Industrial Revolution there was a lot of sophisticated machinery being used. It is easy to believe that they worked under primitive conditions, but that simply wasn't true. Machine tool processes coupled with lots of relatively inexpensive hand work created guns...

I would imagine a combination of forgings followed by various, drilling, boring, rifling, milling, shaping, and grinding/filing/polishing processes. I am guessing many specilized machines and jigs and fixtures were employed the same as is done today.Lot'smachine tools were used back than, it...

Once you have done a conversion it ceases to be an 1860 army. Not sure why these conversions are even being discussed here, you simply cannot get the ballistics you are mentioning from this revolver in the original cap and ball configuration which is what this post was originally about.

I have switched over to Minwax and have been happy with it. Go through a few cans a semester in my University lab.

Not always expensive, think I paid about $20 for this board. Yielded a nice longrifle blank, 2 pistol blanks, and a bunch of scrap pieces.

Tips I would suggest is to find a local woodworking person in your area and ask where they are purchasing from. In our area there are plenty of small sawmills that sell wood, the smaller ones are often the cheaper places to buy. We have some big hardwoods dealers, but they get pretty expensive...

I think it really depends where you are located. Here in PA I have lot's of good sources and can find material relatively cheap, the catch is I am willing an able to but large quantities and can negotiate good prices because of that. The photo below shows a stack of 12/4 (3" thick) seasoned...

I have lived in PA now for about eight years, but choose not to hunt here. Right now halfway back to my home state of North Dakota for a week of duck hunting with my sons. Between over hunted, congested land and hunters like those in the video it seems preferable to make the 22 hour drive back...

Had one some years ago which was near identical. Neat pistols.

You would be better off saving some of the hardware and doing a restock with a new piece of wood. Barrels on those are usually pretty decent and even the locks on the older ones don't have bad styling. Just my two cents.

I think you could get away with it on some styles of guns. I kind of like the painted trade guns and a laminated maple or birch stock could probably be hidden well enough in this style. Wouldn't be my choice, but it could be done.

I have a Nova chuck for my Shopsmith MarkV, you will need to get an adapter for it. It would work fine for the work you want to do.

Those lock internals are terrible. I agree, it doesn't look like any machining was done on them. I have seen Indian made locks that have had more care put into the fit and finish and those were still pretty awful. I would return that lock.

Very nice, thanks for sharing.

Neat rifle, would be neat to see the inside of the lock if you get a chance.

The older Siler kits had as cast tumblers, newer ones are already lathe turned. The raw cast tumblers should definitely be trued up in a lathe in any event. Lathes don't have to cost a fortune, a good model makers lathe such as the Taig would be all you would need and can be purchased new for...

Phil gave you the best advice at the beginning, don't use brass period. If this is an antique I would suggest you stop what you are doing before you ruin it.