Search results

I think you might be right about it being 9mm. The threads on the barrel aren't pristine, so tapping it up to a 10mm might improve things. I have a thread gauge, but it isn't precise enough to differentiate between 1.25 and 1.27mm. I'm only going to get 3 or 4 good threads in the barrel wall...

10-1.25 metric seems too large. See comparison to the original in the center.

I'm replacing a corroded powder drum on a .45 rifle barrel, manufactured for a kit in the 1960s or 70s. The only markings are "Spain" and a six digit serial number. I have a some new drums from ToW of various sizes (including a CVA drum), but nothing matches what came out of this barrel. I've...

If I’m reading that article right, there seems to be a major flaw in how these tests were conducted. The author concludes that the pattern is larger for a flared muzzle compared to a cylinder bore of the same length. He does not seem to consider the pattern for a shortened barrel, where the...

I have that same trade rifle. It’s a serviceable gun, shoots well, and I think it’s a good value for the money. There are some quirks to note about it though. The rifle definitely has a “mass produced” look to it. The lock uses an internal coil spring, which is weird, but does work. The rammer...

Make sure your ball puller is the type with deep sharp threads. A T-handle like this one can really help, too.

If you’re in a hurry, or just don’t want to buy anything, you can simply tape an LED onto a button cell battery and drop it in the bore. See how people make “LED Throwies”, and leave out the magnet.

I have a small flock of chickens, but I’m really wary about using lead shot around the chicken yard. The birds regularly take up small rocks to help them digest food, and I wouldn’t want the shot contaminating the meat or eggs.

There was a guy in the last issue of MuzzleBlasts who used one of these Traditions kits to take a turkey at 16 yards. He was shooting 1.25oz of #6 (about 270 pellets) over card and 80gr of powder. He included a photo of a 12” turkey target that only had 19 holes in it - so, the pattern must be...

OK, maybe this is an insane idea… But if you wanted to keep your brass shiny, wouldn’t it be simple to just gold plate the brass so that it would no longer tarnish? Has anyone ever done this?

So, isn’t it trivial to temporarily convert a muzzleloading “firearm” into a “non-functioning replica” simply by soldering the vent closed, or replacing the liner with a plug? Would it help if you shipped the barrel and the rest of the gun separately?

L Rumor has it that Pecatonica Long Rifle is working with Rice Barrels on putting together a 4-gauge blunderbuss kit that will be available in a couple of months. I expect that to be a pretty good set of parts.

This is a Pedersoli Harpers Ferry Pistol kit. The walnut stock was stained black using steel wool dissolved in vinegar, and finished with boiled linseed oil.

They have a decent selection of bismuth, But it’s still fairly expensive. I’ve seen references online to copper shot, but I’ve never seen it available anywhere. Does anyone know where I can source that?

Your suggestion is quite prescient! I actually ordered a “beater import” for this exact purpose last year from MVTCo. ...but the order was taking so many months to fulfill that I grew impatient and just started building one. I do have to say that the Rayl barrel I have is absolutely exquisite...

I guess there’s another detail I forgot to mention, but the garden is accompanied by a yard of chickens and guinea fowl. Weasels and possums have been a major hazard for them. It’s another reason to avoid lead; it would be unhealthy for the birds to pick it up.

The barrel is modern, made by Ed Rayl (so, not an antique yet!). If I use steel shot, would I need to use a shot cup or paper cartridge to protect the barrel, or is it fine just to use traditional card/cushion/shot/card?

I like the idea of salt or popcorn! I even have a bunch of coarse solar salt on hand. I’d be shooting 4-gauge, so I can load a quarter pound of whatever. Would that be be enough to humanely kill a rabbit or weasel at 10 yards? I can also get chopped copper wire pretty inexpensively. I’m not sure...

With spring coming up, I’d like to prepare some non-toxic shot loads to defend our garden against varmints. What options do I have for a steel-barreled musket? I know that I can always use bismuth, but it’s awfully expensive for this application.