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Those look like RE Davis triggers. The trigger blades come way taller than you'll need for most any rifle. I have a set on my desk and they're almost 5/8" from the base of the plate to the top of the trigger blade. The original set triggers I've handled are closer to 3/8" to 5/16" tall under the...

I got the start of a rear spring hacked out of some 1/8" 1075, I'm planning on using a lead bath to temper it. I've got a 10 lb melting pot, but it dawned on me I should probably cast some balls for this rifle if I'm going to go through the trouble of melting enough lead to submerge the rear and...

I'm getting the same thing. Cleared browsing history, cookies, cached files, etc. and still see it when I go to ALR dot org. Typing in ALR dot org/forum/ takes me to the message boards.

Worked on some set triggers today. Next up is the springs.

I wasn't very happy with the quality of inletting I did for a lollipop tang, I was swinging above my weight and it showed with the gaps around the tang head. I re-breeched the barrel with another long tang breech plug and plan on shifting gears to make this rifle a plain early Deep River-ish...

Was he only making rifles from pre-carved stocks? I might find that statement odd because I've only made a rifle with simple hand tools, but I can't think of any real differences in making a right-hand rifle or left-hand rifle when inletting everything with chisels and gouges.

Here’s my Kibler Late Ketland lock, the fly is the shiny steel nub that you can see at full cock.

I got the tang inlet today, I'm not sure I was setting myself up for success with a lollipop for my second ever tang inlet, but I learned a few things that should make the next one easier and hopefully a little better.

This project of mine has sat idle for too long, today I got the tang shaped. I'll get a draft filed and inlet it this week.

That rifle headlining the article looks like it would fit right in with one of those Call of Duty games. My European history isn't great but I thought the Renaissance was the revival of Classical art, not the complete abandonment of it.

Second time's the charm for the rear trigger, maybe.

I got a trigger plate mostly fleshed out and started working on the triggers today. I finished the rear trigger, but I'm not too happy with it so I'll probably redo it. Luckily 1/8" flat bar is cheap.

Why patchboxes? Because they were common on originals. Isn't that the same reason we more often than not use octagon barrels as well?

I drilled the ramrod hole for my new build this morning. This is my second ramrod hole, and it wandered off center as best I can tell about 1/16" - 3/32" away from the lock panel. Next up is shaping the tang into a lollipop and making simple set triggers.

How is this a death sentence for a rifle build? Nothing some mild steel, solder, files, and patience can't fix. Those second tang 'bolts' were often wood screws on southern Appalachian rifles.

You can make a nose cap out of 22 ga. mild steel sheet and some silver solder, you should be able to find the stuff at any hardware or home improvement store. The only tools I used were some tin snips, a bench vise, needle nose pliers, a propane torch, and a file or two.

There's a market out there, but if I was going to lay down some thousands of dollars on a rifle to be built I'd like to see a fairly well cataloged portfolio of rifles/guns by the maker, and I'd want them to be able to put together a muzzleloader better than I can, and I'd probably be asking for...

16 ga sheet metal from Lowe's or Ace is what I used to make the toe plate on my first rifle. And those are the tools I used to make it. I cut it out a little wider than the toe of my buttstock, inlet it and screwed it on, then filed it flush with the wood on the sides.

I was going to tell you to check MLBS since that’s where I bought my Jarrow’s, but it looks like they’re out of stock too. Did the maker of Jarrow’s close up shop? I can’t find it available anywhere

I used wood dowels to plug the bore and drum threads when I browned my barrel, I wrapped both with a few layers of teflon tape to make a better seal and both holes were free of any corrosion at the end of things. If Kibler uses a stainless liner you probably don't need any teflon tape since...