NRFord
36 Cl.
I
My Kibler SMR Build Log
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NRFord
36 Cl.
Stock is drilled not tenons. See Jim's post above.
I missed his post too somehow.
OK, that explains that. Thanks!!
Makes perfect sense, and the way I'd do it anyway. Thanks!!
Build Log #3
Prep work and other diversions.
No build progress today. Mainly devoted to evaluating Slixshot nipples performance in my Colt revolvers, and to aquiring supplies and tools for my SMR build. I had a heck of a time finding the "jewelers saw" recommended for elongating the barrel tenon pin holes. Finally found one at Woodcraft, for an exorbitant price (as expected) of about $35, but the knowledgable sales associate suggested I could get the same result with a tiny tapered diamond needle-nosed round file for $10, and I'm going to give that a try. Also picked up some materials for plugging the touch hole and bore muzzle while browning. Still not decided on the browning method. Might have to order some other solution to try. If method requires a humidity box, I have cardboard boxes of suitable size, but will have to spend time adapting them.
Later: ordered some of the Max Lee browning solution from Brownell's.
Prep work and other diversions.
No build progress today. Mainly devoted to evaluating Slixshot nipples performance in my Colt revolvers, and to aquiring supplies and tools for my SMR build. I had a heck of a time finding the "jewelers saw" recommended for elongating the barrel tenon pin holes. Finally found one at Woodcraft, for an exorbitant price (as expected) of about $35, but the knowledgable sales associate suggested I could get the same result with a tiny tapered diamond needle-nosed round file for $10, and I'm going to give that a try. Also picked up some materials for plugging the touch hole and bore muzzle while browning. Still not decided on the browning method. Might have to order some other solution to try. If method requires a humidity box, I have cardboard boxes of suitable size, but will have to spend time adapting them.
Later: ordered some of the Max Lee browning solution from Brownell's.
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- Joined
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My SMR was not pre drilled.Sorry to differ. I have built 4 SMR's for customers. All have come pre-drilled, I think. You could be correct though. My old battle-damaged brain gets things confused quite often. Semper Fi.
You could also use the box the gun came in with just a little modification.
I order a SMR a few days before you did and am patiently waiting for that ship notification. The last kit I put together was a Traditions kit from when I was going to SDI. I'll be fallowing your build progress.
Watching.
Build Log #4
Making Tools
I mentioned in a previous post that I gave my work table a clean, new surface worthy of a Kibler kit. Now, I need some extra special tools worthy of me to help me build that kit.
Let's start with some decent leather pads for my vise. I've been doing with makeshift, but not good enough for me now. Fortunately, some old and worn out leather belts were hiding under the work bench, hoping and praying to some day be repurposed for something useful. I can empathize with that. Add in some scrap lumber and glue and we have:
That will hold the main body of of the stock, but this is a very graceful and delicate forearm, so now we need something to keep the forearm comfy and secure at the proper height above the work table:
Together, clamped to the work table, they'll keep the stock nice and steady:
Now, to deal with the barrel, I sacrificed a Sharpie to make a muzzle plug:
But, it's going to be more than just a mere muzzle plug:
These two little doohickies together, plus a piece screwed under the tang, will allow me to support the barrel off the work surface, and to rotate it without touching it (note the non-metallic screw):
I'm hoping a little electrical tape wrapped around the Sharpie will compress and seal the grooves:
I haven't decided yet what to do about the touch hole. Suggestions are welcomed.
But, of course, there's always one last thing, and one can't do a build without a proper mallet. Sure, I could buy one, but it's fun building your own tools. Now, this might look like a plain old piece of closet rod, but don't be fooled:
.... 'cuz it's got half a dozen .50 cal lead balls embedded in one end, and that's enough to enable a fairly authoritative "rap" that's less than an excessive hammer "whack".
End of log for today.
Making Tools
I mentioned in a previous post that I gave my work table a clean, new surface worthy of a Kibler kit. Now, I need some extra special tools worthy of me to help me build that kit.
Let's start with some decent leather pads for my vise. I've been doing with makeshift, but not good enough for me now. Fortunately, some old and worn out leather belts were hiding under the work bench, hoping and praying to some day be repurposed for something useful. I can empathize with that. Add in some scrap lumber and glue and we have:
That will hold the main body of of the stock, but this is a very graceful and delicate forearm, so now we need something to keep the forearm comfy and secure at the proper height above the work table:
Together, clamped to the work table, they'll keep the stock nice and steady:
Now, to deal with the barrel, I sacrificed a Sharpie to make a muzzle plug:
But, it's going to be more than just a mere muzzle plug:
These two little doohickies together, plus a piece screwed under the tang, will allow me to support the barrel off the work surface, and to rotate it without touching it (note the non-metallic screw):
I'm hoping a little electrical tape wrapped around the Sharpie will compress and seal the grooves:
I haven't decided yet what to do about the touch hole. Suggestions are welcomed.
But, of course, there's always one last thing, and one can't do a build without a proper mallet. Sure, I could buy one, but it's fun building your own tools. Now, this might look like a plain old piece of closet rod, but don't be fooled:
.... 'cuz it's got half a dozen .50 cal lead balls embedded in one end, and that's enough to enable a fairly authoritative "rap" that's less than an excessive hammer "whack".
End of log for today.
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Kevin Houlihan
36 Cl.
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Tap a toothpick into the touch hole and you'll be good.
Kevin
Thanks, I was thinking the same, except wood is hydrophilic, it can draw liquid into the touch hole even though it's plugged, no?
A green twig will seal the touchhole the best, toothpicks leak. I cut a small twig off a dogwood outside my shop, whittle it down and tap it into the touch hole, being green if conforms to the touchhole. I do give the inside of the barrel a thick coat of RIG grease before I start browning, this is probably not necessary because I have never had a leak but I err to the side of caution on these things.
I think you are over thinking the browning process. I hang the barrel from a string through the tang bolt hole in my shop, muzzle down and wipe on the LMF with a small square piece of rag, you don't saturate the barrel, just wipe on thin coats.
I plug the barrel with a piece of cedar I made for the purpose, the soft wood conforms to the bore when I tap it in. I oil the end that goes in the barrel and clean the metal around the plug with acetone before I start the browning process.
I think you are over thinking the browning process. I hang the barrel from a string through the tang bolt hole in my shop, muzzle down and wipe on the LMF with a small square piece of rag, you don't saturate the barrel, just wipe on thin coats.
I plug the barrel with a piece of cedar I made for the purpose, the soft wood conforms to the bore when I tap it in. I oil the end that goes in the barrel and clean the metal around the plug with acetone before I start the browning process.
brushyspoons
36 Cl.
I used wood dowels to plug the bore and drum threads when I browned my barrel, I wrapped both with a few layers of teflon tape to make a better seal and both holes were free of any corrosion at the end of things. If Kibler uses a stainless liner you probably don't need any teflon tape since there's no reason to get any browning solution on the liner.
Teflon tape and twigs ... great inspiration. Thanks!! Don't know about stainless; will have to find out. *
* edit: yes, stainless, and pre-installed.
"overthinking" helps my walking time go faster - I cease thinking when I start doing
* edit: yes, stainless, and pre-installed.
"overthinking" helps my walking time go faster - I cease thinking when I start doing
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I brown the barrel with the breechplug in, I have so much high temp antiseze on the plug threads that nothing is getting by.
Where I live, N/W Alabama we have a lot of 100% humidity early morning hours, particularly if there has been rain the day before. I either leave my barrel outside under the roof of my archery target or hanging in the garage with the door open if it is raining for the initial rusting session. After I get a good coat of rust started, I take the barrel back to my shop for future coats of LMF and carding the red rust off. I don't need the extra humid environment once the rusting starts.
Outside works well;
Where I live, N/W Alabama we have a lot of 100% humidity early morning hours, particularly if there has been rain the day before. I either leave my barrel outside under the roof of my archery target or hanging in the garage with the door open if it is raining for the initial rusting session. After I get a good coat of rust started, I take the barrel back to my shop for future coats of LMF and carding the red rust off. I don't need the extra humid environment once the rusting starts.
Outside works well;
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Build Log #5
Getting Aquainted
This is where I take a parts inventory, not so much to make sure everything's there, but more so to learn the parts - by name, by sight, and by purpose.
Yup, all there. Now back into the box with ya, for right now, anyway.
Note: the plastic bag in center foreground contains some handy little tools that are now included to make drilling pin holes easier. Thanks!!
Getting Aquainted
This is where I take a parts inventory, not so much to make sure everything's there, but more so to learn the parts - by name, by sight, and by purpose.
Yup, all there. Now back into the box with ya, for right now, anyway.
Note: the plastic bag in center foreground contains some handy little tools that are now included to make drilling pin holes easier. Thanks!!
Is there any reason I shouldn't draw-file the barrel first, before doing the dry-fitting?
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