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Latest is the new Shogun series. Its set around 1600 and he has Revolutionary war flintlocks. Should have been those huge snaphaunce or wheellock pistols with the huge ball maces on the end of the barely bent grips.

I actually HAVE these cans. I bought a bunch of empty Black Powder containers from various sources so I could store my own powder properly and was making an effort to replace the original contents of the can as close as I could. For canon powder I know what that is, (larger than 1F) but the...

I see cans marked "Cowboy" "Canon" and "Cartrige". I'm guessing canon is 2FA but what do the other two mean?

I was on the range firing my .45 Caplock pistol for about three hours before someone actually asked me where I was getting all of the caps. And then noticed mine were Aluminum.

Those look like 'Blank Gun" caps. Never tried to do those. I have been making mine using the 22lrreloader equipment and my own H48. I mostly make Aluminum ones as I can get 100+ caps out of a single soda can, but I found if I get sheet copper from Amazon I can basically make commercial caps...

I can make percussion caps that are both completely reliable and now even look like commercial caps. Why? Because learning how to do that was apparently easier than making a flintlock work, as I have yet to successfully make one fire. Depends on your skill set I suppose.

I'm still looking for a Discord server. I'm on a couple of Black Powder ones but they are all fireworks guys.

The last step in the process for me regarding percussion caps was buying sheet copper off Amazon instead of using aluminum cans. Now I can make caps that look and function just like what came in the tin. A full tin of copper caps costs me less than $4 to make. Some time is involved - but not...

I use the formula I got from cap&ball on Youtube. Caliber x twist rate x 2 = max BP powder charge with plain lead projectile. If I exceed that my minie balls tumble as yours do. Stay under that limit and they work fine. With my rifle it is a .54 with a 28" twist. 31 grains sounds pretty...

The formula is caliber x twist x 20 = maximum grains with a plain lead projectile. In your case .5 x 20 x 2 = 20. Anything more than that will make the bullet jump the rifling. THAT formula is well known, my own version of that is when firing a sabot that middle number is probably closer...

Today I saw TWO original blunderbuss guns from an estate sale, both converted to percussion. One of them is a percussion converted Miquelet lock. If I thought I could get a working nipple on either of them I would have bought them as I don't think they are asking what they must be worth, but I...

I have a firing 250 year old replica. Probably better called a fake, though it might actually be legit, just made by a subcontractor. I have done research and such things did in fact happen. Its a Harpers Ferry 1804 Model - but it has the wrong markings on it. I have established it is indeed...

I have one like the one on the bottom. I got mine to work. Eventually. ONLY reason I messed with it was that it had a good looking wood stock I had to reshape both springs and put a different Frizzen on it. Even after hardening the one it came with did not work, or fit. There was a gap...

If I'm casting something that's going to be loaded with a patch I figure I can be less picky. I got a bunch of lead that was contaminated with Zinc and thats how it got used. For revolvers I figure it has to be pure.

I have a Knight LK-93 I bought used that has that twist. Its 30 years old though, hardly new. I was at the range this morning and Minie balls keyhole at 50 yards if they even hit the paper. Haven't tried round ball in it yet. Apparently it was made for shooting Sabots only which is probably...

I have an ASM Remington 1858 that I got cheap because it had "water" damage (It was actually pet urine). Two of the nipples are rusted in so solid I broke two wrenches trying to get them out and gave up. My main issue is not the broken pieces after the cap has been fired, It was the caps...

The "Nitrofire" guns are classified as modern guns and require the usual FFL to transfer them. One of the reasons I mostly shifted back to Black Powder was to avoid all the FFL stuff.

Can you just replace the barrel? Sounds like everything else works ok.

This is a decade old thread but these guns are still circulating. I just got one. It dates from the era when much unlike today "Made in Japan" was a synonym for "Crap". It is low grade steel with imperfections, all the parts are overly thick and roughly machined, the end of the barrel looks...

I got one recently where I could feel where half and full cock were, but the hammer would not catch on either of them. I took it apart to find it full of gooey oil mixed with dirt (at least no rust) so the lock is out soaking in Ballistol at the moment. I get the impression it was never taken...