What is more accurate?Also what will give you a pass thru on whitetails everytime.......at 50yds...
Do you promise to only ever take a standing broadside shot from ground level? :hmm:
A wheel-weight roundball of .50 cal or larger pushed to a muzzle velocity of 2,000 fps will get you through a deer every time at 50 yards. BUT, what you want is a projectile that just barely makes it out the other side.
If a Maxi-Ball pokes a 1/2" hole through a deer, say moving at 1,800 fps, and keeps on going at 1,500 fps on the off-side of the deer, all you have accomplished is to poke a hole straight through the deer. You can do about the same with a field point on a wood arrow or a sharp stick (both of which are horrible choices and hopefully illegal hunting ideas). What you want is something that transfers energy to the bone, tissue and nerves around the projectile's path, causing destruction and hemmoraging as it passes through. And an exit hole is a big plus. But, a blood trail is secondary if the game drops in it's tracks or stumbles after a few staps. One way to guarantee energy release is with a hollow-point, but whenever you use one of these you risk lots of surface damage and little penetration with a leg, elbow or shoulder-blade hit. :nono: The problem is, the hollowpoint that perfoms flawlessly at 120 yards might be a SuperXplosive Varmit blaster at 15 yards; destroying meat while still not compromising vitals.
I am using a very moderate load of .490 ball and 84 gr FFg powder. Last week I took a buck facing me at 40 yards and the round lead ball penetrated about three feet, lodging under the hide on the deer's left hip. One hole, no exit. The deer never moved it's hind feet and dropped after performing a rearing turn. No bone was hit except the sternum "keel". The 0.490" ball expanded to an average 0.523" diameter.
A round ball is a very suitable and reliable projectile at 50 yards. It never has a jacket seperation and never "blows up" on a heavy bone or the shoulder blade. HOWEVER, there is no projectile that self-corrects for a poor shot. Furthermore, a good shot at the muzzle can turn into a poor shot at the animal because of movement or interveining cover/obstructions, wind, etc., etc. And then there's things like range estimation, moist powder, body shakes, etc, etc, that can spoil a shot. My point is that even when you have great faith in the penetrating and killing abilities of your projectile, you should still be prepared to spend a couple hours following up on a good shot that went bad. No one likes it, but it will happen eventually. Practice a lot and shoot when it feels right, pass when it doesn't.
I figure that even with the best shot a deer has 10 seconds of life. I've had heart-shot deer run 150 yards in that time. I definately prefer it when they collapse at the impact.
The most accurate projectile depends on the individual gun and your shooting style.