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10F powder ?

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dennis byrd

32 Cal.
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
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Flintlock compatriots

I would be grateful for help describing the various blackpowder types and burning speeds. I am particularly interested in the absolute fastest powder I could use in my 32.cal flintlock. Thank you
Jet90
 
Besides the regular 1F, 2F, 3F and 4F there is some stuff out there that I have always called 7F, but 10F is probably just as good. As I understand it, 7F is actually the powder that is put in firecracker fuses. I have heard that it isn't really a genuine blackpowder, but may be some kind of nitrate powder. I used it as a primer in my flintlocks years ago, but found that it drew moisture pretty quickly and the priming had to be carefully watched.

I don't know that I would care to load a muzzle loading gun with it. The stuff just might have more oomph than your barrel can stand.

Many Klatch
 
3f is what you should use. 4f is for priming. These are designed to give the best performance in muzzleloaders. If you use a finer ground powder it will very likely be like a sponge and soak up moisture from the air very rapidly.
IMO you can't get much faster ignition than from using 3f charge and 4f prime.

HD
 
Jet90 said:
Flintlock compatriots

I would be grateful for help describing the various blackpowder types and burning speeds. I am particularly interested in the absolute fastest powder I could use in my 32.cal flintlock. Thank you
Jet90

Swiss is the fastest, most powerful BP.
The burn rate is *generally* controlled by granule size FFFF is about twice as fast as FFF which is twice as fast as FF with is twice as fast as FG. Cannon powder is much larger granules and much slower than FG.
Swiss produces better ballistics for a given granule size because it is made with better charcoal than is available in the US and it is milled longer for a better mix of components, they are ground finer before being pressed and then broken into granules. But FFFFG Swiss is still about twice as fast as FFFG Swiss.
For priming you need FFFFG. FFFG for the main charge. This is as fast as you can get. FFFFG as a main charge will simply increase breech pressure with no other benefit. Not a good idea.

If you are thinking ignition it is very *unlikely* you will see a difference in what powder you use so long as you use the proper granulations. Lock tune and placement/design of the flash hole are more important.
Swiss is very much like the mid-late 19th century "sporting grade" powders. Far better than what was used in the early 19th century and 1820 powder was much better than powder used in the American Revolution. Mostly due to refining the formula and better methods of manufacture becoming standard.

Dan
 
Jet90 said:
Flintlock compatriots

I would be grateful for help describing the various blackpowder types and burning speeds. I am particularly interested in the absolute fastest powder I could use in my 32.cal flintlock. Thank you
Jet90
Here's some info on the Goex website...and as you might guess, their recommended powder charges are understated to accommodate a good buffer for liability sake...but this is a good starting point. Goex is made in the USA and arguably the best price / performer blackpowder available today.
[url] http://www.goexpowder.com/load-chart.html[/url]

Swiss is made outside the USA, claims to be 10% hotter but it's twice as expensive as Goex...Swiss claims to have less fouling but you still have to clean the muzzleloader afterwards so there's no advantage there either.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jet90:
As the others have said, 3Fg powder is as fine (and as fast) a powder as you should use as a main charge in your .32 flintlock.

I may be wrong, but somehow I get the feeling you want a "fast" powder to help with a slow firing flintlock rather than wanting to use it to get a super hot load?

If it is speed of ignition your after, the speed rate of burning of the main charge won't effect the speed of ignition.

If your filling the flash pan too full or if the size of the vent hole is too small or the vent is drastically mis-located a flintlock will either go fisssssssshhhhhBOOM or perhaps POOF..........Boom.

A fisssssssssshhhhhhhBOOM is caused by covering the vent hole with powder. Using only enough prime to cover the bottom of the pan will fix the problem.

A POOF.............Boom is usually due to a plugged vent hole or too small of a vent hole. Refer to the Flintlock forum area for good solutions.

Then again, I've been wrong before..... :grin:
zonie
 
The small bore rifles also generate the highest pressures, just using FFFg powder charges of 20-40 grains. You should NEVER USE a finer powder in the barrel as a main charge. That includes, FFFFg priming powder, and anything finer, including fuse powders, and flash powders for old time cameras, that are rated, 7Fg and 10 Fg. These would generate excessive pressures for any gun and could prove dangerous to the shooter. Remember, unlike a modern cartridge gun, where you have the powder encased in a sturdy brass casing, which has a tensile strength capable of taking 55,000 fpe by its self, and is then surrounded by modern steel barrels and breechblocks that can also take 75,000 fpe and more, that replica percussion or flint rifle, even made of modern steels, still has a hole from the powder charge to the outside of the barrel located only a few inches from your hands and face when you pull the trigger. I saw a nipple and flash cup disappear out of the back of my brother's rifle when he fired a relatively modest load of FFFg powder in his 40 cal. percussion rifle years ago. The threads in the drum for the nipple were oversized, and my brother did not know it until the mishap occurred. The pressures generated by the .36, and .32 caliber rifles is a lot higher. No one was hurt in my brother's " Accident" but the event reminded us that these are real guns, firing real explosive compounds, that generate real pressures. While the pressure decreases rapidly, for a part of a second, the barrel, breechplug, drum, nipple, or vent are all put under a large amount of strain. Don't be fooling around with these odd powders that were never intended to be used in a gun! YOu could injure yourself, or others, needlessly, by your negligence, damage a fine firearm, and give this sport a bad name for no reason that you will ever be able to sell to a Judge.
 
Gentlemen

This is excellent information and exactly what I was looking for. I have followed plans, advice,and tips from many of you and it has saved me so much time and grief. I have tuned my lock, every moving touching clasping piece to a mirror finish. Ground and polished the flashhole and pan. Switched to lead to hold the flint and learned to knap, ALL from your generous comments.
I have taken my particular flintlock about as far as I can and have ordered a custom gun from one of our members. I am indebted to This fine and honorable collection of miscreants. Thank you all!
Jet90
 
I agree. 7f can give a slightly faster ignition than 4f, but most people can't tell the difference. It's unglazed (no graphite) so it will draw moisture at a very fast rate. I've used some out of curiosity, but I think I'll stick with 4f. And as everyone has said, I'd definitely stay away from using priming powder for the main charge.
 
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