12g double barrel percussion shotgun

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Been wanting one of these for awhile to shoot everything from PRB to bird & buck shot with. Would probably shoot round ball more often than shot, & want a double barrel that does both & can group decent enough w PRB out to a good 50yd or better if possible

Prefer barrels 20-27”

Trying to keep it under $500 & less is better. Know that’s not easy to come by as many of the replica’s go for way too much

Was about to pull the trigger the trigger on a Pietta on here but someone snatched it up b4 I did

Kinda like the idea of an original & ironically Rhodes often go for less than replica’s, like Sharp’s rifle’s always seem too as well, but not sure I should trust round ball out of an old one?

Anyways, any recommendations
I’d look at a smooth bore that’s made to shoot RB shot and buck not a double but that’s me .
 
You will find double shot guns with heavy barrels and even sights. Holts advertise them as shot and ball guns even though both barrels are smooth
 
I have a SPANISH dbl, CONN VALLEY ARMS, mfg for / sold, 40 yrs ago sold by the dealer in DEEP RIVER. CONN. and with a square load of T-7. 3 and 1 half draghms and hornets nest for wadding it will print at 3 inches apart at 40 yards. with a lead cast 720 dia rb. hope this helps?
This does help

Do u mean 3” groups at 40yd when firing each barrel once?

Or u talking about 3 or 5 shot groups?
 
T:Rex 87:
You need to post a wanted ad in the classified section. This section is for smoothbore discussions and members should not post what they have for sale here.
Thanks
Nit Wit
Ok thanks

Looks like my post was already edited, down to proper discussion for this section

Mostly just trying to get some good info & the guys have been helping out a lot with that

Wasn’t sure if I had enough posts to post in the sale section. I don’t post just to rack up numbers, trying to let it happen organically 😉
 
Ribs- upper and lower- Look carefully for any separation from the barrels. Acidic flux was sometime used. Over the years corrosion can form on the steel beneath the solder joint. This will cause the joint itself to weaken and fail. Look for any evidence of a gap between the rib and barrel. Sometimes you can see the corrosion (rust) peeking out from a seam or a hole in the solder. Any repairs to fix this will completely change the patina and look of an antique. Sometimes you will see oxidation, too. This is a white chalky layer that forms on lead based solder. Oxidation is not as much of a concern as corrosion.
A friend had the experience of having both barrels go off at once, traced it to corrosion finally giving way between the barrels.
When the barrels were separated acid corrosion was end to end.
 
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