I think those patch thicknesses are a bit thin, for a .662 Caliber Bore size( Nominally for 16 gauge.) Remember that you have the thickness of the patch on Two sides of the ball, So that your .013" patch adds not .013", but INSTEAD, adds .026" to your ball diameter. That brings the patch and ball combination you describe up to .6464".
That combined diameter is why I think you are way too small for a true 16 gauge.
Have you measured the actual bore diameter of this "16 ga." barrel? What does it actually measure in thousandths of an inch???
The idea of using a 21/32" drill bit to drill the loading block is sound. Make the block at least as thick as the ball diameter, and making it thicker makes more sense. You need to protect the ball and lubed patch in the ball block when its carried. You can use a dowel, that is tapered, and a slit sawed down the middle to hold onto strips of abrasive cloth, to Open the 21/32"( .6562") diameter hole up to take your patch and ball. A tapered hole allows you to seat the PRB into the block easier, giving you some resistance to hold the patch and ball in the block until it goes out the bottom of the block. Taper the dowel at a very shallow, 1-2 degree angle, and open the hole in the block to just allow a snug PRB to fit through the bottom and into the muzzle of your barrel. Be sure to use a good BLO or gunstock finish to seal the end grain in the hole. Then use wax periodically to keep any of the oil or lube in your patches from penetrating the wood.
A block that holds 3 PRB is about all the weight you want to be lugging around at one time, IMHO. At 16 gauge, your balls will weigh close to one ounce EACH, and you will feel it, whether the block is on a thong around your neck, or carried in your hunting pouch, strapped over your neck and shoulder. You will have another ball in the barrel, so you have 4 shots at your ready disposal before you have to begin cutting patches at the muzzle.
Drill bits are expensive. If you have a friend who has them, ask him to let you use the bits to drill your block. Check hardware stores for "Spade" bits in the right size. They tend to be the cheapest bits to buy, and will do this kind of work in wood quite nicely.
If not, visit a local machine( or wood) shop and ask them what they would charge to drill the block you have already marked out for the holes. Darn near 100% of the people who work in machine shops( and beter than 50% of the people who work in wood shops) are gun folk, and the rest are either car nuts, or both! Just giving them a good idea on how to carry extra balls for their guns will often get the work done for you for free.
I always go back with at least a 12 pack of beer to donate to their "After work" fund, to say "thank you."
I try to count heads to see how many beers I need to see everyone gets a can to drink, when I am there. I don't mind buying a case of beer, if there are enough people. I have also been well received when I delivered a case of canned soda pop, that they can drink on their breaks. It doesn't take much to ask the people who are helping you what their favorite beverage is.
The guys who are interested in shooting always get an invitation to go shooting, too. I have found that most of these guys are fascinated by anyone who shoots MLers, and is willing to help them learn how to load, clean and shoot these kinds of guns. If you are a "rock-locker", jaws hit the floor, I swear. :shocked2: :rotf: :idunno: :hmm: :thumbsup:
