Sam squanch
69 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2019
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You may have an obstruction inside the stock mortise preventing the half cock from working. Thats a Portuguese lock , all right. They are kind of rare .
I’ve been able to engage the half cock protrusion each time I’ve tried, but it doesn’t engage always the first time. It almost engages, but slips off. If I mop up any oil around the protrusion it can then grip the half cock. It’s touchy.Here is a photo of the lock back on the gun and holding in the half cock position. The flint was removed because I did a lot of soaking in penetrating oils. After various scrubbing tools and soaking up the rust with paper towels etc. I found I couldn’t get the half cock protrusion to kick out enough to engage the cock. After applying some Hoppe’s #9 though while off the gun, the half cock engaged. After putting the lock back on the gun I couldn’t seem to get it to engage the half cock again. It sat for a few hours and I tried it again and there you have it. Working, but sporadically. Not a real big issue since I am not planning to shoot this old gun, but I like to try to get things in working order. I’ll be visiting this old beauty many times to see how she fares. The half cock protrusion is the small circle in the curve of the lower cock. Full cock always engages with the foot brought up to the ledge that sticks through.
Escopetas are just cool as can be.Interesting! There does seem to be a small hotbed of interest in these; even the word "escopeta" rolls off the tongue easily!
I never thought of the Two Piece Leather idea; always just folded it, but it's something that never occurred to me! I used lead a lot.Congratulations. A nice Spanish escopeta from the 1770's. And typical of the style. These remained popular up through Spanish Colonial times through the early 1800's. Nicely engraved Spanish patilla lock.
I'm a bit late on this Thread. But I can see you figured out the safety position on the lock plate. Mostly gunk just blocking the hole in the lock plate. You noticed the safety sear is round with a notch filed into it to secure the foot of the cock. I've seen where this notch needs to be filed just a tad deeper to have a more positive hold on the foot of the cock. As well as the round hole on the lock plate smoothed out just a bit so the whole safety position functions normal. It's just from wear.
With the lock engraving and marks on the barrel, it appears this piece was originally made as a sporting gun. These escopetas are light and well balanced.
Due to the longer jaws, it's often easier to use two pieces of leather. One flat piece for the upper jaw and one the same for the lower jaw. Makes it easier to adjust the flint back and forth. In any case, the flint will likely sit very close to the top edge of the frizzen.
Again, nice original piece.
Rick
Thanks for this Rick. Any comment about the Ernaro engraving and comments that this is not Spanish but Portuguese? What is a patilla lock btw? Why a sporting gun? I see that there is no bayonet mounting hardware. You are sure right about the escopeta being light and well balanced. The wood from the lock forward is so thin it’s almost like it was sprayed on ! Appreciate any additional thoughts you might have.Congratulations. A nice Spanish escopeta from the 1770's. And typical of the style. These remained popular up through Spanish Colonial times through the early 1800's. Nicely engraved Spanish patilla lock.
I'm a bit late on this Thread. But I can see you figured out the safety position on the lock plate. Mostly gunk just blocking the hole in the lock plate. You noticed the safety sear is round with a notch filed into it to secure the foot of the cock. I've seen where this notch needs to be filed just a tad deeper to have a more positive hold on the foot of the cock. As well as the round hole on the lock plate smoothed out just a bit so the whole safety position functions normal. It's just from wear.
With the lock engraving and marks on the barrel, it appears this piece was originally made as a sporting gun. These escopetas are light and well balanced.
Due to the longer jaws, it's often easier to use two pieces of leather. One flat piece for the upper jaw and one the same for the lower jaw. Makes it easier to adjust the flint back and forth. In any case, the flint will likely sit very close to the top edge of the frizzen.
Again, nice original piece.
Rick
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