1851 navy cylinder problem

[lenl349]

Just received my used 1851 Navy Colt .36 cal. (Pietta manufactured) and took off the barrel and cylinder to clean it all up before taking it out. However can't get the cylinder back on over that spring loaded protrusion in the frame. Is there a trick or do I have a problem?

Also, where can I get a nipple wrench to fit it? the one for my rifle doesn't fit obviously.

 

[B P Arn]

Perfectly normal. Put the hammer on half cock. That should allow the cylinder to slide onto the arbor.

 

[B P Arn]

I made my own nipple wrench by slotting a 5 mm socket, and it works much better than the factory one I bought. I can post pictures tonight if needed.

 

[lenl349]

the gun is at half cock. I took it off that way and just slid right off. but can't get over that protrusion to get it back in. i clean the area put a drop of oil on it butcylinder just stops and won't go over it. shouldn't have to force it.

 

[lenl349]

I made my own nipple wrench by slotting a 5 mm socket, and it works much better than the factory one I bought. I can post pictures tonight if needed.

thanks I'd appreciate it

 

[Kansas Jake]

Have you tried cocking the gun and releasing the hammer all the way down. Does the part retract so you can put the cylinder on? Try putting the cylinder on as you slowly cock the hammer. The bolt should retract sometime during the process to allow the cylinder to slide on.

 

[Mulebrain]

I have one pistol where that doesn't work. I have to cock it, pull the trigger let the hammer slam forward, then half cock will lower the cylinder stop.

 

[B P Arn]

the gun is at half cock. I took it off that way and just slid right off. but can't get over that protrusion to get it back in. i clean the area put a drop of oil on it butcylinder just stops and won't go over it. shouldn't have to force it.

Definitely do not use force. If you move the hammer position one way or the other you will find a spot where the cylinder will easily slide into place.

 

[B P Arn]

If you cock the hammer slowly you should see the bolt (the protrusion) retract into its slot, which will allow the cylinder to be installed. When the bolt goes down, the cylinder should go on.

 

[lenl349]

took a couple of trys BP but it worked. Thanks guys.

 

[ppg1949]

I made my own nipple wrench by slotting a 5 mm socket, and it works much better than the factory one I bought. I can post pictures tonight if needed.

B P Arn, I think pictures would be appreciated.

 

[B P Arn]

It's like dealing with a woman; you need gentle persuasion, not force!

B P Arn, I think pictures would be appreciated.

OK. I will get some pictures posted tonight.

 

[ppg1949]

B P Arn, Thanks.

 

[sourdough]

How old is the revolver? The date code will be on the right side of the frame in a rectangle, or if before 1975, in Roman numerals.

It sounds to me as if the wedge-shaped cam on the lower right side of the hammer is worn. If so, it will not allow the inside bolt leg to reset properly when the hammer is lowered, thus not allowing the bolt to operate correctly. Pietta 1851 Navy revolvers manufactured prior to AT/2001 are not CNC-machined and the bolt/hand/hammer parts are somewhat different than current Pietta CNC parts available from VTI, Taylor's, et al, and they won't work on the older guns without quite a bit of fitting, if at all.

Been there, done that somewhat: Lets see your fixer upers

Post #2 & #4.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Jim

 

[Zonie]

took a couple of trys BP but it worked. Thanks guys.

When you pull the hammer from the fired position to half cock, the cylinder locking bolt should retract down inside the frame. This will allow the cylinder to be removed.
If you leave the hammer in that position, you should be able to reinstall the cylinder without a problem.
If, after removing the cylinder, you move the hammer to full cock, the cylinder locking bolt will come back up out of the frame to lock the cylinder rotation.
If you then lower the hammer to the fired position, the locking bolt will remain sticking out of the frame. Any time the locking bolt is sticking out of the frame, it will be impossible to reinstall the cylinder.
That said, if you have moved the hammer after taking the cylinder off you will need to lower the hammer all the way to the fired position. Then, slowly bring the hammer back to half cock. After doing this, the cylinder should slip right on.

 

[lenl349]

Sourdough. The mark indicates a 2007.
seems to be fixed for the moment. thanks all for the good advice.

 

[sourdough]

Any time the locking bolt is sticking out of the frame, it will be impossible to reinstall the cylinder.

Zonie, I have come to know you as a very adept and educated guy when it comes to these revolvers, even with my very little time on this forum.

I have to take exception with your statement. The original bolt/trigger spring is a small, thin flat spring, very susceptible to damage. It is very easy to depress the bolt into the frame via thumb pressure with the barrel/cylinder removed. Its sole purpose is to supply pressure to seat the bolt into the stop slots and as a trigger spring. The only consequence concerning moving the cylinder back onto the arbor with the bolt up is possible marring of the cylinder, but it is far from impossible.

I truly think there are function problems with the OP's revolver

Regards,

Jim.

 

[B P Arn]

Here are pictures of the nipple wrench I made.

When I first got into muzzle loaders, I bought a generic nipple wrench. I had a revolver with very tight nipples, and the wrench broke the first time I used it.

I used a 5 mm deep wall socket to make a new wrench. I used a Dremel tool with an abrasive cut-off wheel to carefully cut a slot in the mouth of the socket that would fit over the flats of the nipple. Once I got the slot cut to where it was a nice tight fit on the nipple flats, I welded the socket to the original T-handle. It works perfectly, and fits every gun I have.

I liked the nipple pick that fits into the top of the wrench, and I can still use that.

^^^ The red arrow points to the weld

 

[sourdough]

[QUOTE="lenl349, post: 1714810, member: 48137"Sourdough. The mark indicates a 2007. Seems to be fixed for the moment. Thanks all for the good advice.
[/QUOTE]

With that datecode, you may be in luck with replacement parts should you need them, but you must be specific when looking for parts. Be advised that 2001-2014 Pietta parts are not the same as parts currently offered via VTI, Taylor's, et al, as the new Pietta parts from 2015 forward. Pietta did a big change in 2015 with the new gripframe (non-tail) and the hand and bolt were changed.

Pietta does things sometimes that are out of the somewhat norm, but if you have a Pietta (and I have several!) you need to apprise yourself of the differences.

I hope it turns out well for you.

Regards,

Jim