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1851 navy help

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Aaron todd

32 Cal
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Sep 14, 2018
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I just got a Uberti 1851 navy for Christmas and all I have is #11 caps and I can’t find any #10 anywhere and when I put the 11 caps on the cylinder it won’t fully rotate is there any way I can make them work and I tried using slix shot nipples too so I have a new gun I can’t even shoot:(
 
There is nothing unique about #11 caps that would effect the way your revolvers cylinder turns. If anything, they will fit down fully on the nipples easily making them less likely to cause a problem than the #10 caps.

Your task at the moment is to find out why the cylinder won't fully rotate.
 
You say you have tried using Slix shot nipples. Are these nipples made for revolvers or are they made for rifles and single shot pistols.
I ask because the revolver nipples are much shorter than the nipples made for the single shot percussion guns.
 
Try squeezing the caps a bit and slightly forcing them on the nipples, sounds like the caps are loosening after seated.
Are youo getting all 6 caps on the cylinder or just one or two then bind up?
 
If the slik shots are pistol nipples then having it bind up when you install caps can only be caused by one thing. Driving the wedge in to almost the point of bind up between cylinder face and forceing cone. Another short arbor problem.
 
If the slik shots are pistol nipples then having it bind up when you install caps can only be caused by one thing. Driving the wedge in to almost the point of bind up between cylinder face and forceing cone. Another short arbor problem.
I think that might just be the problem how do I fix the arbor
 
Remove the barrel and cylinder. Put barrel on arbor with it turned to miss the frame mating surface. If the barrel and frame mating surfaces overlap that is how much shim should be put in the arbor hole. Test with several thicknesses of washers untill the mating surfaces just meet. With barrel turned to miss turn the two surfaces to each other. They should cross onto each other with no interference, no gap or overlap.
May need to use more than one washer and or thin one down. Gap at barrel and cylinder hopefully will be under .010 but needs to be even top to bottom and side to side, square.
Clean arbor hole and lightly grease the end of the arbor. Put just a drop of epox in bottom of hole. Place washer in the hole and assemble complete. Let epox set. Wedge should install with thumb pressure or very light tap and lug on wedge leaf spring should show through the frame. If wedge is too tight don't trim the frame or arbor. Trim the wedge, cheaper to replace if necessary.
This makes the barrel bore and cylinder bore inline with each other. Also when assembled it makes the two parts act as a solid mass. Should it shoot left or right that's another fix but rare.
 
I think that might just be the problem how do I fix the arbor
The way to fix the arbor is to get a washer or washers somewhere around .060 to .080 thick that will just clearance fit in the arbor hole and drop them or it in. Now install the barrel and using dial calipers measure the distance between the frame and the barrel lug. Subtract this amount from the thickness of the washer in the arbor hole and that figure will be the thickness of the washer/shim you will need to correct the short arbor. The wedge can then do it's only job of locking the two units ie: barrel and frame into a single unit.
 
The gun is new and should be returned to the seller before any home gunsmithing is attempted.
That will accomplish no purpose as even if they acknowledge a problem and exchange it you will get the same problem returned to you. Unless of course you exchange the Uberti for a Pietta which doesn't come with a short arbor.
 
Why would a new gun need tuning? Someone really needs to ask Beretta, the parent company of Uberti.

Black powder revolvers need a going over for machine burs, timing checks, etc. in the last few years especially, Ubertis. Sure, they will probably shoot, but how well? Even silly things happen, like a muzzle is not cut square. Throws the ball as it exits.
Can we expect the quality to be as good as it was before the Chinese Virus? I wonder if the factories are even lucky to get a product out that works.
Even the originals were not shot until they were tuned and tested. I am sure they would shoot out of the box, but how well?
 
I have had conversations with manufacture reps about these things. The replies I received clearly indicate that they consider these as toys only to go boom and not explode.
 
Black powder revolvers need a going over for machine burs, timing checks, etc. in the last few years especially, Ubertis.
Thus, I become an employee of the manufacturer, doing their quality control without pay. No. I already have a job, and it's not gunsmithing.
Timing can checked with a magnifying glass; doing so will show the cylinder goes around once before the new revolver leaves the factory and the bolt strike will be apparent. Wedge fit is obvious; if it goes past flush with thumb pressure it's fit is questionable. That's the extent of my gunsmithing on a new purchase and is done without even cocking the gun. In a previous post, I noted a difference of 10,392 between the serial number of a revolver with a CT proof code and one with a CU proof code. That's a lot of revolvers in one year and I don't think twice about returning one of these computer-generated facsimiles.
 
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