1855 dragoon pistol cal58
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Steve Blancard
40 Cal.
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Its not a replica of anything. The M1855 pistol should have a Maynard tape primer lock and barrel. These were originally made with a M1842 style lock and barrel. They look ok, but they are a replica oddball. Do a google search for a real M1855 pistol, you'll see what I mean.
here is the real stuff :
http://www.antiquearmsinc.com/springfield-1855-pistol-carbine-us.htm
http://www.antiquearmsinc.com/springfield-1855-pistol-carbine-us.htm
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The guys are right, the replica isn't really that. If you shorten the stock and fit a standard ramrod it actually makes a better copy of a M.1842, but whatever. I had a couple through the years and they are fun. Patched balls are a hoot with about 40 to 60 grains of FFg. I've actually shot Minie balls with one and 45 grains was about all that was really comfortable. I found later that Sam Fadala listed balls with 30 to 60 grains and a Minie with 50 grains of FFg and that pretty much confirms my results. Don't try to magnum one of those things up, it can be a real thrill. They do have a "cool" factor though!
I got a deal on one of these a few years ago.
The fit of the stock is a joke.
Has anybody figgered a way to tighten one up?
A LOT.
I have experience with detatchable or folding stocks.
Lugers, M1a1 Carbines, AKs, MPs, etc.
The ALL wiggle some, but these dragoons are outrageous.
The fit of the stock is a joke.
Has anybody figgered a way to tighten one up?
A LOT.
I have experience with detatchable or folding stocks.
Lugers, M1a1 Carbines, AKs, MPs, etc.
The ALL wiggle some, but these dragoons are outrageous.
All, I had one of these when Navy Arms (A. Zoli) offered them in 1976. Fit & finish were VG, but the nipple had so large an opening on the bottom that it would recock the pistol with a max. load (60grs. FFg). The trigger pull was excellent, but the sights were way off. Moreover, it shot patched .562" RB's much better than it did .58cal. Minies. And, the ramrod was a PITA to use as the support arms/pivot under the bbl. wasn't threaded properly and would simply unscrew every few shots.
A little dab of Loc-Tite thread locking compound on the threads would fix that problem.
If one had Loc-Tited their threads and they ever want to remove the screws they can heat the screw up to about 450 degrees F (about soldering temperature) and the Loc-Tite will loose all of its strength.
If one had Loc-Tited their threads and they ever want to remove the screws they can heat the screw up to about 450 degrees F (about soldering temperature) and the Loc-Tite will loose all of its strength.
