1858 nipple rust

[Matt85]

seems no matter how thoroughly i clean my pietta 1858, the inside of some of the nipples get rust in em. ive tried using a light oil in them before which was great to prevent the rust but ment i needed to pop 2-3 caps over each nipple before i could get the gun to fire correctly.

how do you guys prevent rust inside yer nipples?

 

[preston cook]

on my 1860 after it has been cleaned and oiled , stored when i get ready to load it again i remove the cylinder and run a pipe cleaner in and out of each nipple then blow through it to make sure it is clear before i load it. that is just my way but it works for me good luck with your revolver :thumbsup:

 

[necchi]

how do you guys prevent rust inside yer nipples?

I dry'm after cleaning, :idunno:

I always do a alchohl wash/rinse after getting most of the water gone. Then a little compressed air to blow'm out.
Canned air works just fine.

But, if rust has started then it'll never stop trying to come back an ya gotta oil,,,
Guess what? Alchohol get's rid of the oil too, the same way, :wink:

 

[Matt85]

first, pipe cleaners dont fit they are to large. heck i dont even know how to clean the rust out of the nipple since nothing fits in there.

second, i dry the nipples seperate from the cylinders with a hair dryer. i get em so hot you cant even touch em.

what kind of alchohol are you using?

 

[necchi]

Well I'm not the one that mentioned using pipe cleaners, and of course they won't fit through the nipple but they do fit into the port area on the cap end. I do use them.

I use DeNatured Alchohol, some guy's use Rubbing or Isopropyl alchohol but that has a water content of 10-30%

 

[Matt85]

hmm where might i find some denatured alchohol?

 

[rafterob]

Take a hike in de nature :rotf: Any hardware store will have it, usually in the flat quart containers or 1 gallon size. A quart will last a long time and works great as a cleaner for things like ink stains or adhesives.

 

[rafterob]

I clean mine with hot soapy water and rinse. Wipe off excess water then let air dry. I liberally oil the nipples in the cylinder first, allowing the oil to run around and through the nipples. Then I patch oil the chambers. Wipe off excess. Before shooting, wipe off any residue and dry patch the chambers. I have never had to pop more than one cap per cylinder. If you live in a humid climate the heating with a hir dryer may actually facilitate condensation in the nipples as they cool down, this can cause "flash rust" many experience this effect when using very hot or boiling water to clean/rinse with.

 

[swathdiver]

Rust from water I presume? Try cleaning it with near boiling water. All of the water will evaporate when you're done cleaning, then you just need to to oil.

Many have never removed their cones, others take them out every time. Mine have automotive anti-seize on the threads (same stuff we use on spark plugs) out of habit but probablly don't really need it.

 

[Matt85]

I clean mine with hot soapy water and rinse. Wipe off excess water then let air dry. I liberally oil the nipples in the cylinder first, allowing the oil to run around and through the nipples. Then I patch oil the chambers. Wipe off excess. Before shooting, wipe off any residue and dry patch the chambers. I have never had to pop more than one cap per cylinder. If you live in a humid climate the heating with a hair dryer may actually facilitate condensation in the nipples as they cool down, this can cause "flash rust" many experience this effect when using very hot or boiling water to clean/rinse with.

this is a good point, maby i need to take it easy on em with the hair dryer. the hair dryer works great on the guns but the nipples might be a bit more sensitive due to the small cavity inside them. im not having any rust issues with the #11 nipple on my rifle which is whats leading me to believe the small cavity is pulling in and trapping moisture durring the cooldown.

ive currently got all my #10 nipples sitting in a bath of CLP, gonna let em soak for a while to handle the rust.

thanks for the info all!

 

[nilo52]

Buy a bottle of "Heat" from Pep Boys. Cost about 2 Bucks. It's enough to clean a whole bunch of nipples. Is it humid where you live ? Here in California it's preeety dry and I don't have any rust problems at all, just use hot water to help drying and blow out any residual moisture .
Good Luck ! :v
Nilo52

 

[CrossdrawHero]

< Only ever used Bore Butter. After drying, I swirl the nipples against a buttered up wad down on the table. Sounds simple but it is much like greasing a wheel bearing. Bore Butter gets pressed up into the flash holes while oiling. Displaces the water.

For extended storage, I oil wads for each cylinder chamber and press them in. Keeps everything moist with oil. The action of pressing them quickly forces air out the other side of the nipple which takes some butter with it while expelling. The oily wad forms a semi-seal between the rear chamber walls and the oiled flash holes. No or little air will fight rust.

Does a good job. When at the range, remove the oily wads from the cylinder chambers, clean up the chambers, run a nipple pin through, hold cylinder up against the sun, see and count 6 tiny holes. Thumb on caps, drop hammer. All dry and ready to thunder.

 

[Joel/Calgary]

Rust from water I presume? Try cleaning it with near boiling water. All of the water will evaporate when you're done cleaning, then you just need to to oil.

I suspect that local water chemistry and the specific steel involved makes a difference. Around here with our hard water (plenty of limestone & dolomite in the mountains, so lots of calcium & magnesium but little iron), I have watched the rust forming following the retreating edge of the water droplets when I used boiling water. I've had no flash rusting using cool to moderately warm water, and using alcohol to get the water out of patent breeches & such hard-to-reach places.

Regards,
Joel