1858 Remington ball size

[Dexterado]

Probably asked 1,000 times, but I have a very old (1960) Uberti 1858 Remington, and I have measured the cylinders at .440. Does this sound correct based on what you owners have seen? I was hoping my .457 balls would work, but that seems quite a bit bigger. I’m ordering a press due to the loading lever being fragile, but wondering if I should be looking at .451 molds. What do most of you owners use in yours?

 

[wiscoaster]

You should be able to pick up .451 balls anywhere that sells muzzleloading supplies. Both my local Fleet Farm and my local Scheel's carry Hornady .451 balls. So you can buy a box of factory balls and try them out in your revolver before spending the money on molds for same.

My Pietta 1858 runs best with 0.454 balls. 0.457 is too big and 0.451 doesn't shave a full circle lead ring. YMMV.

 

[Gtrubicon]

My Uberti also prefers .454 round balls.

 

[Smokerr]

Cylinders measurement seems too small. I just measured my 76 ASP NMA and its around .447. It takes .454 balls best.

It will take .457, but it has a tapered entry to the chamber so .457 goes in ok. I would not buy molds until I sorted out what the right size is but .454 was common. Only Ruger Old Army used .457 as a standard. No one uses .451. They do work but as was noted, the sealing band is pretty skinny and while I shoot them a bit, I used a lubed wad as a safety measure to prevent a chain fire.

 

[bpd303]

My Remington Navy 44, imported by FIE likes a 450 ball and matching bullet. Lee sells a 450-200-1r double cavity mold that casts a 450 round ball & rebated base Real bullet. I haven't shot the Remington in a long time, but am going to try them with my 1847 Walker that has undersized .439 chambers. I realize these are a little wrinkled but I was having problems with the bottom pour Lee lead pot and after I cleaned it out the rest of the run are good. The Remington has .441 chambers. It was made in 1970 XXVI I bought it in 1972 and it is another mystery on who made it, the only marking I can't ID is a B with top and bottom brackets that is stamped on the butt of the grips along with FIE & serial number.