1858 remmie gums up.

[himem777]

I have shot my new gun a few different times, and a few different loads. They all have one thing in common in that after 12 or so rounds the pin that holds the drum in get stuck, two gummed up to take out without lots of work. I am using the piro +p. I oil it and still. :surrender: Any Ideas :idunno:

 

[TFoley]

I have shot my new gun a few different times, and a few different loads. They all have one thing in common in that after 12 or so rounds the pin that holds the drum in get stuck, two gummed up to take out without lots of work. I am using the piro +p. I oil it and still. :surrender: Any Ideas :idunno:

Sir - last sunday I fired 240 shots through my Ruger Old Army, and it was getting a bit sticky in the last thirty or so.
the parts you refer to are called the cylinder pin and the cylinder, and the usual lubrication is a smear of grease on the pin before you replace the cylinder after cleaning up.

That's all either my ROA or Colt Walker get. I can shoot maybe sixty or so shots from the Walker before a good clean is needed in the shooting session.

All I use is Pyrodex.

No oil. Any petro-chemical-based oil will quickly gum up the works, in my experience.

tac

 

[rafterob]

I use some crisco on mine since I also use it to top off the chambers. It is good for about 5 or 6 cylinders (30-36 shots).Crisco heats up and melts out pretty quick so maybe its not the best. I forgot this step last time out and it was stiff after 12 shots just like yours. I have heard recommendations for other high temperature grease such as "water pump grease".

 

[Norinco]

I use marine grease on my guns. It won't melt or run until I take a blowtorch to it for two seconds or so. I only use it on the nipples and cylinder arbor of my revolver. I have not used it over a chamber.

 

[Celt5494]

Might try getting your hands on some break free (CLP) or Ballistol. Oil down the whole operation before your shoot next. If it strats getting stiff oil it down again and put the gun on 1/2 cock so you can rotate the cylinder and work it in real good. It shouldn't give you any more grief. Of course when you get home give it a good cleaning and re-oil.

 

[himem777]

Ok I pulled the cylinder pin all the way out, and found that there was a gouge in it. It looks like someone tried to install it upside down leaving a mark on the pin. I sanded it down, and will have to wait till I get to the range to find out. Thanks for the help. I am learning a lot here. :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

You didn't say whether you were greasing the mouth of the chambers after loading.
Applying grease over the top of the balls does several things.

It provides some lube for the bore and a lot of it ends up being blown in all directions when the round is fired.
One of the directions is toward the cylinder pin so the grease can provide a little lubrication there and it can help to keep the fouling soft.

If you haven't been using a grease give it a try. It might help you with your problem.

 

[nkbj]

I have a Pietta 1858 .44 that gums up right away. Crisco does not keep it from happening. And I always use grease in front of the ball.
Haven't figured out the fix yet. I'd always been an open top shooter.
Who ever figures it out first be sure and yell loud and long.

 

[himem777]

I have not used grease over the ball because I use a wonder wad. I just got done making "Bore butter". If I use grease, do I have to use wads?

 

[rdstrain49]

Wads or grease or both, it's whatever your gun likes. I use Bore Butter on the cylinder pin and have no problems binding. If you shoot enough rounds during one session, you will have to reapply some "butter". Just a reminder, don't use petroleum oils or greases, they will likely only add to your problem.

 

[CaptainKirk]

I use Lubriplate AA650 (a white lithium-based grease) on my cylinder arbor, arbor bore, rotation lugs and hand assembly when disassembling the cylinder. I also use it as an assembly lube when breaking it down completely. Can't say enough about it. :thumbsup:
As far as lube over the balls, I use Crisco whether or not I'm using Wonder Wads to help protect against chainfires and to keep fouling to a minimum. Just bring plenty of rags...

 

[napolean]

I like the white Lithium grease for the cylinder pin also, I get the small plastic tubes at Ace hardware, only a few $ and lasts a long time. Also use 50/50 tallow/beeswax over the ball (the one time I forgot this I did have a chain fire). Shoot 30-36 shots and then a quick wipe down and relube.
Jon D

 

[himem777]

The oil I have been using is Hopes 3 in one. I wonder if it might contribute to the problem?

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Since our Club shoots in the pouring rain, underneath 10x10 pop-up's (like you'd see at street fairs) I use oil so I don't get rust. When things start to bind-up from fouling, I wipe a little Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine on the chamber mouths with a paper towel. The chemical emulsifies BP fouling on contact and "keeps me in the game" by wiping the forcing cone when I rotate the cylinder. Some also gets into the tight spots around the cylinder pin of the '58 and it makes the cylinder turn easier. On a '58 all you have to do is to give the cylinder pin a little wipe every couple cylinder's worth or so and there isn't a big problem. Remember to snap a cap at the firing line or to use a nipple pick after cleaning the chamber mouths in case some crud finds its way into the chambers :wink: .

If you wait too long to pull the cylinder pin, do yourself a favor and bring along a small piece of soft pine that you can smack with a rubber mallet to get the pin started :wink: as it won't scratch the revolver.

Good luck and enjoy your revolver!

Dave

 

[rafterob]

I don't think your oil is the problem. Oil should be wiped off of the surface areas and from the cylinder and bore before shooting. Two areas where the fouling builds up will lead to the binding or gumming up of the cylinder. One is the cylinder pin area and the other is the face of the cylinder. Using lube over the tops of the balls like Zonie suggests is one way to help keep the face of the cylinder from building up and then wiping it off once in awhile helps also.By lubing the cylinder pin with a grease that will not melt out you are sealing that area so fouling can not get in to gum it up in the first place. thats why cisco doesn't work real well for the pin because it melts out rather quickly.

 

[Mike 56]

I agree i don't think it is oil. For years i would load powder, ball and Crisco over the ball. I would get no hard fouling in the barrel but after loading two or three times i would have to clean the cylinder face and cylinder pin. Then i stared using wads i would get some hard fouling in the barrel and had the same problum with the cylinder pin and cylinder face. Then i started making pan lube and pouring 1/8 inch thick letting it cool and cutting grease wads with a 45 cal case. I put these grease wads between the powder and ball. The result was every time i shoot having my lube behind the ball it pushes lube on the cylinder pin and on to the cylinder face no more binding and the barrel stays clean. You can shoot as long as you want with no cleaning. I have tried this yet but i think if you put filler or a wad over the powder then put Crisco or bore butter under the ball it would work the same. The only problum would be if you did not put enough lube or put too much it would foul the powder. If you wanted something to seal the chamber i think a drop of olive oil on each ball would do the trick.

 

[junkman_01]

If you wanted something to seal the chamber i think a drop of olive oil on each ball would do the trick.

And then you could also add a little vinegar,pepper and a croûton!

 

[Zonie]

Your Remington might be a copy of the Remington-Beals revolver.
It is the one on the right in this photo

Notice how the frame comes back almost reaching the face of the cylinder.

The frame on the New Model Remington shown on the left is away from the face of the cylinder exposing the threads on the barrel which extend almost to the face of the cylinder.

Even if your gun is not a reproduction of the Remington-Beals perhaps you might be interested in a bit of history.

The Remington-Beals was actually designed and Patented by Beals in 1858 (hence the name "1858).

The .44 caliber Army version was first made and offered to the Army as the "Remington-Beals Army Model" in 1861 as competition for the Colt 1860 Army.

The Army did extensive testing of the new Remington and rejected it because the cylinder would lock up after a few shots were fired due to fouling on the frame and the face of the cylinder.

Remington redesigned that area to provide clearance between the frame and the cylinder creating the Remington 1861 Army which also featured a cylinder pin that could be slid forward without lowering the loading lever. The Army rejected this version because the pin could slide forward as the gun was carried in a holster thereby allowing the cylinder to fall out on its own.

Remington again redesigned the pistol and called it the Remington New Model Army in 1863.
The Army liked it and the war was raging so thousands of the guns were ordered.

The Remington New Model Army was made from 1863 to 1875 an estimated 122,000 being manufactured.

 

[Norinco]

http://books.google.com/books?id=cS...d:ISBN0595357962&as_brr=3#v=onepage&q&f=false

And if he wants even more history.

Edit: Who makes a copy of the Remington-Beals? I know Uberti makes a Remington in .36, but I forget what it looks like.

 

[himem777]

Mine is defiantly the one on the right. I went to the range today after 12 rounds the pin was sticking. I found that the pin was sticking in the part of the frame that is at the rear. I found there was powder (unburnt) in the hole. I cleaned, oiled and kept it that way. I seams as if all that is necessary for it to stick is heat. :idunno: