1861 Springfield not igniting powder

[dave951]

I've never had any significant ignition issues with my Pedersoli 3-band P53 Enfield, (using either CCI or Scheutzen 4-wing caps) but my new (and beautiful!!) Pedersoli Zouave is a different story -- LOTS of ignition problems with that one, regardless of cap brand. Scheutzen caps fit much tighter on the nipple and seem to take one hammer strike to seat them fully, then BANG on the second strike. The CCI caps are easier to seat on the cone and generally fire first strike, but often fail to ignite the charge. On close examination it looks like my hammer face is hitting the cone a bit off-center -- not hitting the musket caps squarely over their whole circumference. I'm sure this contributes to my ignition difficulties with the Zouave, and I have NO idea how to fix that. Torch and gently bend the hammer arm until the face hits the caps/cone squarely?? Hmmm . . . not sure I want to risk that.

On the bright side, the Zouave is a wonderful shooter -- when it fires reliably.

While I do like Schutzen caps, they are gilded steel and as such, don't seat easily on some nipple profiles resulting in misfires with the first hammer strike. Easy way to deal with it, chuck the nipple in a drill and turn it at slow speed dressing it with a small file and polish removing just a touch of material on the outside of the nipple. Check often with a cap to see if you've removed just enough to allow the cap to seat properly. Problem solved.

 

[JamesA]

Had the Hawken out to the range today. I didn't have one misfire, not even a "hang fire", the kind where you hear two distinct reports, almost on top of each other. Since I have owned the rifle, I never had such a stellar day, at least in reliability of ignition. My shooting still sucks. I had one shot that I swear a grain of dust tripped the hammer after I set the trigger. Set triggers are nice but mine is waaaay too sensitive. My first shot, after replacing the front sight, I almost destroyed my target frame. It's to the left of the piece of blue tape at the bottom of the bullseye in the second picture. First picture shows the carnage. from behind. All in all, it was a good day, hotter than ........I am comfortable with. When I left, it was already in the 90º's. I got a line on a shipment of #11 caps, supposed to arrive next week. They will only sell 5 to a customer but 500 is better than what I have now. BTW, I love the new front sight. I have it mounted quite securely now.

Not too awful bad with the exception of the two flyers, three if you count the first shot that nailed the frame. Just working up a load and getting more proficient at reloading. Home made target stand and frame. Going on 5 years since I put it together. With the price of lumber, I'll repair it rather than make a new one.

 

[dave951]

Had the Hawken out to the range today. I didn't have one misfire, not even a "hang fire", the kind where you hear two distinct reports, almost on top of each other. Since I have owned the rifle, I never had such a stellar day, at least in reliability of ignition. My shooting still sucks. I had one shot that I swear a grain of dust tripped the hammer after I set the trigger. Set triggers are nice but mine is waaaay too sensitive. My first shot, after replacing the front sight, I almost destroyed my target frame. It's to the left of the piece of blue tape at the bottom of the bullseye in the second picture. First picture shows the carnage. from behind. All in all, it was a good day, hotter than ........I am comfortable with. When I left, it was already in the 90º's. I got a line on a shipment of #11 caps, supposed to arrive next week. They will only sell 5 to a customer but 500 is better than what I have now. BTW, I love the new front sight. I have it mounted quite securely now.


View attachment 85154

View attachment 85155

Not too awful bad with the exception of the two flyers, three if you count the first shot that nailed the frame. Just working up a load and getting more proficient at reloading. Home made target stand and frame. Going on 5 years since I put it together. With the price of lumber, I'll repair it rather than make a new one.

With 2x4s at the current price, you'll probably have to win the lottery to replace the wood

 

[A.C.Morgan]

MOST '61 Springfields I've dealt with have had the issue at the transfer hole under that clean-out screw. If you CAREFULLY enlarge the channel going into the breech area, you will improve your ignition greatly. Don't go batshit though- You can screw up the threads for the clean-out screw. Good Luck!!!

 

[Grenadier1758]

Check the "clean out" screw. Often these are too long and can interfere with the nipple seat and the flash channel. If you can see the threads of the "clean out" screw from the nipple seat, that screw needs to be shorter.

 

[JCKelly]

Stop messing with these odd caps and a breech designed to clog. Get thee a real gun, which is to say a flintlock. When I was shooting at Old Westmoreland back in the '60's my old flint rifle would go BOOM when those squirrely caplocks were all clogged with whatever.

 

[springfield art]

While I do like Schutzen caps, they are gilded steel and as such, don't seat easily on some nipple profiles resulting in misfires with the first hammer strike. Easy way to deal with it, chuck the nipple in a drill and turn it at slow speed dressing it with a small file and polish removing just a touch of material on the outside of the nipple. Check often with a cap to see if you've removed just enough to allow the cap to seat properly. Problem solved.

I'd gently file the face of the nipple to match the angle of the hammer strike. Nipples easily replaced, not so for the hammer itself. Good advice, BTW.

 

[Relic shooter]

Awesome!

As to your ignition problem it may be due to your nipple having an overly long threaded base that could be partially blocking the flash channel. If you pull the clean-out screw & see this is the problem you can order a new nipple with the correct length base or I can provide some tips on how to correct the problem that I used to repair folks muskets & rifles in years past.
I can relate to the bad air due to several forest fires as I live nearby in Kuna.

 

[RicM]

Glad it all worked out with nothing more than a thorough cleaning in the Nipple and Nipple Channel to get you back on target!! I mentioned earlier post how there are many different types of bore scopes the money ranges the gambit. Mine I paid amount $50-60 bucks off Evil Bay. A great tool, it plugs into the computer and you view it on the computer. The down side is it shows you just how incomplete of a good cleaning you "thought" you did. LOLOL But on the HUGE plus it allows you to check things out. On these pics I had a 54 caliber dry-ball (yeah flapping my gums and not paying attention, live and learn) on my M1842 Aston/Johnson smooth bore pistol. 1st photo shows me shooting it (I just love it). The 2nd shot shows the bore after cleaning, 3rd photo shows that pain in the butt dry-ball (used a ball puller to remove it). The 4th photo is the barrel side of the percussion cap channel. So bottom line any obstructions, damage, or inspections inside can be spotted. Regarding my Pistol she shoots spot on at 20 yards a grouping the size of a grapefruit. After that the rounds spread out.

 

[RicM]

Regarding your rifle the bore scope is long enough to reach even the longest of muskets. These photos I are from my 1863 Springfield Rifle. On the 1st photo, check out the stuck tiny brass wire that became dislodge from the brass bore brush. I have since changed to a nylon bore brush. 2nd photo is a center shot of the bore, way down the barrel and the 3rd photo is the percussion cap channel inside the barrel. 4th photo is shooting. I first learning to shoot it starting at 30 yards, then 50 and now hitting small metal plates at 100 yards. Very accurate rifle.

 

[ML48]

I can't believe it took 3 pages to get this solve. If you have fuel, air, and an ignition source.....you have fire.
Now, we know we have fuel and an ignition source, but not getting to the fuel. There is only one way for it to ignition to get to the fuel. It has to be blocked.....period. WOW. Anyway, glad you got it back to launching the projectile

 

[springfield art]

Regarding your rifle the bore scope is long enough to reach even the longest of muskets. These photos I are from my 1863 Springfield Rifle. On the 1st photo, check out the stuck tiny brass wire that became dislodge from the brass bore brush. I have since changed to a nylon bore brush. 2nd photo is a center shot of the bore, way down the barrel and the 3rd photo is the percussion cap channel inside the barrel. 4th photo is shooting. I first learning to shoot it starting at 30 yards, then 50 and now hitting small metal plates at 100 yards. Very accurate rifle. View attachment 85209View attachment 85210View attachment 85211View attachment 85212

Nice! Good info.

 

[jcs266]

Glad you figured out the problem. I'm very happy with my Pedersoli 1861 Springfield, it's one of my very favorite guns.

 

[Gooddaytoya!]

I put a new nipple on my rifle and it stopped igniting the loads. It took the drum off and saw that the end of the threads of the nipple protruded into the drum. So I had to shorten the threads on the nipple. Then, I changed the nipple assembly to use shotgun primers. No misfires anymore.

 

[APG]

Hey all,

I recently picked up a Pedersoli 1861 Springfield. Used but in great condition. While my ammunition for it has not come in yet, I ordered some Schuetzen Musket Caps and decided I would try them out. After using 3 caps to clear out any gunk that may have been in the nipple, I loaded up the rifle with 60g of Goex FFG, slapped a cap on there, and pulled the trigger. Unfortunately, it did not ignite the powder. I tried two more times before doing a full disassemble and cleaning of the gun. After that, I tried the same thing but to no avail.

What am I doing wrong here?

I have a Pedersoli 1861 Springfield and sometimes I have the problem you are having. In loading the rifle I found that after adding the powder I give the rifle a few sharp hits with the palm of my hand on the side lock before adding the projectile. Seems to work for me. I have also used different brands of musket caps and found that the RWS brand works best for me. Then the Schuetzen comes in close second and then way in last place the CCI's in last place.

 

[wb78963]

Remove the nipple clean out the barrel with some hot soapy water flushed down the muzzle. The water should piss out the nipple hole fast and full. If not get a small pick or pipe cleaner to clear out any blockage. Thoroughly clean and dry out the barrel. While doing this let the nipple soak in a small cup with Hopps 9or an equivalent. Then use a nipple pick and toothbrush and clean it and make sure nothing is blocking it. If you have compressed air shoot it down the nipple hole should hear it flowing and do the same with the nipple. Then very lightly greased the thread of the nipple re-install. (Snug it don’t over tighten it)

Then shoot a cap or two, then load it up with powder and try it. The darn think should work!!! No reason it shouldn't.

for reasons I cannot understand soaking nipples in common paint thinner loosens and dissolves all the fouling and cap residue. I have used Hoppe;s #9 and paint thinner is better and less expensive.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk