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1863 pocket model question

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Recently acquired a brand new 1863, 31 caliber of course. ( My avatar picture in fact )

I'm pretty happy with it but it does something I don't believe I have ever seen my 1858 do. When the cylinder is removed on half **** and the hammer is drawn all the way back, the hand moves up into a position that looks like it sticks out further than it would with the cylinder present and the trigger is unable to be pulled until I take my finger and manually push down the cylinder stop bolt.

The gun functions perfectly fine with the cylinder installed. I recently loaded up two cylinders with four rounds ( so as to keep the hammer on an empty ) and aside from relatively horrible accuracy, it functions fine and had a 100% fire on the first drop rate.

Shooting at a pizza box size Target from 20 ft or thereabouts, I was able to keep three out of four rounds on paper.

I certainly won't be going and stalking any deer or hogs with it anytime soon.
 
The cylinder notch is the "limiter" for how far the bolt rises through the bolt window. That means the bolt arms (other end) are lower and further back than they would be. At that point, they are under the cam with a square shoulder rather than a "reset relief" which locks everything up. Since the trigger is in the full **** notch, and the hammer is locked back by the bolt, pushing the bolt head down unlocks everything.

Mike
 
The cylinder notch is the "limiter" for how far the bolt rises through the bolt window. That means the bolt arms (other end) are lower and further back than they would be. At that point, they are under the cam with a square shoulder rather than a "reset relief" which locks everything up. Since the trigger is in the full **** notch, and the hammer is locked back by the bolt, pushing the bolt head down unlocks everything.

Mike
That's good to know. I just wondered if something mechanically deficient was going on.
 
Recently acquired a brand new 1863, 31 caliber of course. ( My avatar picture in fact )

I'm pretty happy with it but it does something I don't believe I have ever seen my 1858 do. When the cylinder is removed on half **** and the hammer is drawn all the way back, the hand moves up into a position that looks like it sticks out further than it would with the cylinder present and the trigger is unable to be pulled until I take my finger and manually push down the cylinder stop bolt.

The gun functions perfectly fine with the cylinder installed. I recently loaded up two cylinders with four rounds ( so as to keep the hammer on an empty ) and aside from relatively horrible accuracy, it functions fine and had a 100% fire on the first drop rate.

Shooting at a pizza box size Target from 20 ft or thereabouts, I was able to keep three out of four rounds on paper.

I certainly won't be going and stalking any deer or hogs with it anytime soon.
What charge did you use? 12grs? Real BP or substitute? Cheers. Ratkas
 
I got a spare cylinder for mine and the hammer would not go into full ****. Looking at the hand, noticed it also stuck way out like you mentioned.
I had to remove the hand about 5 times and stoned it till it worked and the hammer went into full ****. Tried the original cylinder and it works great. And so does the unmentionable.
I also have to push the cylinder bolt down manually without a cylinder in it.
 
The cylinder stops the bolt from rising to high. When you remove the cylinder that stop doesn’t happen. The hand sticks way out for the same reason.
Type of powder has no bearing on it.
 
The cylinder stops the bolt from rising to high. When you remove the cylinder that stop doesn’t happen. Type of powder has no bearing on it.
My question on the type of powder and charge used has nothing to do with his issue. I was just curious about what he used and how much, cause I also own a Remington Pocket. Apologies......should have stated that bit in my post.
 
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